Amp Hookup, Flush Sub Box & Amp Cover Install

[JamminWagon]

This is the installation of 2 amps and a sub box what will end up flush with the top of the side storage bins.

WARNING: Shorting of battery may cause damage to person and/or vehicle. Improper gauge of supply wire may cause risk of fire. Use EXTREME caution!!!

Use these charts supplied by the12volt.com to determine which gauge of wiring to use. http://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp

Tools required:
Wire of proper guage
Terminal ends (crimp or solder)
Wire stripper, sharp knife or razor
Drill, bits
Screwdriver

Attack the terminal end to the main power cables. Normal method is red(+) and black(-).

Fuse topic: On a normal install you would run the power cables from the front of the vehicle to the rear, because the battery is in the rear I did not include a fuse. The purpose of the fuse it to disconnect the battery incase of a short by shorting from melting or cutting. The wires are safe from these hazards, but if hesitant, by all means install an inline fuse.

To install the wires work from the amp to the battery to prevent a loose "hot" wires. In the below pic you will see 4 guage wire to 2 distribution blocks. Their purpose is to take a 4 gauge to 4 8-gauge leads. Since I only have 2 amps, two will be empty for further expansion without having to replace the blocks. Attach the leads to the amps then to the blocks then from the block to the battery(with fuse removed from the inline fuse holder if used). When hooking up the battery, connect the + first then the -. You will see a spark at first, this is the capicator in the amp charging up. If you are using an inline fuse it may spark when insterting fuse.

Here is a close up of the distrbution block. Noticed that everything is tiestrapped together to keep them from flopping around. Also the blocks are mounted to prevent them from moving around.

Here is the final result. Notice everything is clean. The reason I cut up the fiberboard is to install the sub box following.

[JamminWagon]

Here is the amp cover that I made. I took measurements to have it an 1/8" lower then the box that I built so that I can place a carpet cover on it and it will be flush. All it is a top piece with a ring underneath it to raise it to the proper height. The slot is for cooling and a LED bar.

Here is the rear with the sub box installed. Again notice that the amp rack is just a hair lower.

Here is the semi-final result. The amp rug is layed out. I had to redo it because when I cut the piece, I didnt not match the grain of the carpeting. If you notice in the pic, the carpeting looks like different shades. With the grills inplace, the speakers are protected so that I can still use the back area for hauling.

[Knightrider]

all i see is red x's for pics...but reads good

just realized this topic was back in 2006

[STLTH WGN]

yea no pics Jammin

[MagWag]

they mightve been moved in his Photobucket acct... thatd make the x's?

way to revive the old threads, this was trunk redo # 7 right jammin?

[Knightrider]

i made an edit sayin i just realized it was old lol...my fault

[JamminWagon]

Sorry guys/gals, the pics are long gone. Plus it was an install about #15 of 35 or so. Here is how she sits now.

[JamminWagon]

Originally Posted by MagWag

this was trunk redo # 7 right jammin?

Lets see hahha

1)Twin Alpine 10" Type-s Subs, Cant remember hte model of the Alpine amp


2)Same subs/amp, added Sony 10 disc CD changer


3)


4&5&6) Moved Changer, added Treo 12" Single sub.

[JamminWagon]

7) realized box is too big for the sub and created a cubby hole


8) More power, got Alpine MRD-M605 Amp


9) had to have matching amps haha, stepped to a 4x75w Alpine and tired my hand at porting


10 Didnt work out so good, had the pros built the box to my design
Hit 151.1db with pro-term @ a db drag race at Omaha

[JamminWagon]

11)Got tired of the room ataken up, plus exposed the amps for cooling


12)Wanted the port again (4")


13) Port noise drove me nuts


14) Painted area of the tray that the amps sit in silver