Amp wireing questoins

11secmagnum · 08-26-2008, 10:08 AM

Ok so here is what I got.

Kicker ZX1000.1 Mono block
Kicker ZX650.4 4 CH amp for the mids
JL W7 12" sub

What size power and ground wireing should I use? Im thinking 2AWG should be plenty?? what brand should I go with? I love kicker wire. and what are some good RCA's? and fuse blocks? Let me know what you guys think??

Bigal470 · 08-26-2008, 10:44 AM

to much to choose from...when i was doing my system I went with whatever fit my theme, you know me black and silver....I like all the JL fuse blocks and distribution blocks they also have nice RCA's... Just remember to upgrade the battery to chassis ground....

gstr6800 · 08-26-2008, 02:01 PM

Ok. There are a number of options you can use here, but I will keep it simple for you. I have divided this up into categories to help you out. Brands don't really matter. In most cases, a good system install has very little wires showing. The construction of the cable is the most important (i.e., twisted, shielded, oxygen-free, etc.)

Power and Grounding:

When connecting positive (+) and negative (-) cables, you want to make sure you have cables graded to fit the system you are looking to install. The best cable for the job would be twisted, oxygen-free cable. This type of cable will help to eliminate noise and heat transfer.

For a good quality install, you will need 4ga. or larger running from your positive battery terminal to your primary fuse. From the fuse, you will continue to run the same size cable to a multi-amp fused distribution block to separate the wiring to the amps. Keep in mind to purchase a block that you will need for your particular installation for a clean setup.

From this block, I would run the require wire size to the amps. For your instaaltion, I would use either 4ga. to 8ga. cable. Make sure this cable is smaller than your primary line for proper protection and fusing. Try to make runs as short as possible. If you are using a distribution block, the block should be located close to your amps, so the longest run should be to your battery.

As for your negative wire, it should be the same size of one grade larger than your positive wire at the amp. Run this to a distribution block like the positive wires are run. From the distribution block for the negative wires, you will need to ground the primary negative to a "clean" spot on the chassis.

Signal Cables:

RCA cables make a great bit of difference when it comes to quality sound and alternator noise elimination. You want to make sure you pick up a good set of twisted, oxygen-free cables as well. Make sure you do not get cables that are too long. In most cases, 10' cables will be pushing it, if you placed your amps in the rear. The best way to run these cables would be to remove the console and run them under the carpet from the deck straight back.

Power Aids:

In addition to power boosts when needed, you can purchase an extra battery, a capacitor, and/or a capcell (if you want both in one). When connecting these, the best connection is closest to the battery, just after the primary fuse.

Adding a extra battery provides a good source of power, but your alternator works harder to charge both. It provides clean power to the amps, but takes up a little more space than a capacitor.

A capacitor is another helpful addition. Caps are used to provide a boost of power when your amps excede the expectations of the battery. These are smaller than traditional battery additions, but some caps will drain when you hit long bass notes, or when you are listening to pounding sounds that have a high beat-per-minute rate.

Installation:

Wheninstalling amps, "never" mount the amps to the chassis. That is one easy way to create ground loops. Make sure your distribution blocks are mounted close to the amps and covered to prevent shorts. With this info, you should be able to get a good installation started. There are a ton of brands people will try to sell you on, but construction makes all the difference.

Hope this helps. I will add more if you need additional help.

11secmagnum · 08-27-2008, 07:12 PM

Thanks man that helps me ALOT. Im putting my amps kinda on my box, im boxing them some one in so you cant see ANY wires, and leaving the heat vents on the top open so the LED lights will shine and it will box the amps perfect so you dont see screws or wires. Im going to fiberglass everything so it can be painted.

txnhockey3 · 08-27-2008, 07:28 PM

Well gstr covered alot. My only additions would be sure to wire it correctly. What i mean by this is make sure you run power on one side and RCA/Audio on the other side. I think the norm is Audio on the driver side and power on the passenger side. If you run power and audio together you will create noise and lower quality.

That and stinger wire for the speakers

2 guage should be good for the amps i mean you dont have to run it far since the battery is right there.....

08-26-2008, 10:08 AM	#1
11secmagnum Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Coeur d' Alene Idaho Posts: 655 iTrader: (0)	Amp wireing questoins Ok so here is what I got. Kicker ZX1000.1 Mono block Kicker ZX650.4 4 CH amp for the mids JL W7 12" sub What size power and ground wireing should I use? Im thinking 2AWG should be plenty?? what brand should I go with? I love kicker wire. and what are some good RCA's? and fuse blocks? Let me know what you guys think??
	11secmagnum's Sig:Viper Hood 3in Coilovers Powdercoated Wheels EBC Green Stuff pads LED Blue underbody LED Blue Nitrous purge Blue Headlight Strobes 180 T-Stat Predetor programer 150 Wet Shot Cold Fusion Nitrous TCM Tuned Hemi Orange Engine bay Polished A/C lines 3 in Cat-less exhaust Kenwood 8019 Touchscreen Shifter boot Switch Panel Alpine Type R 12 Kicker Mids Valentine One Radar system 25% Tint all around 5% Eyebrow Shaved moldings Shaved Rams head Tinted Tails LC-1 Wideband Digital Nitrous Gauge VDI Doors

08-26-2008, 10:44 AM	#2
Bigal470 One wicked azz car! Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Oceanside, CA Posts: 4,550 iTrader: (0)	to much to choose from...when i was doing my system I went with whatever fit my theme, you know me black and silver....I like all the JL fuse blocks and distribution blocks they also have nice RCA's... Just remember to upgrade the battery to chassis ground....
	Bigal470's Sig:

08-26-2008, 02:01 PM	#3
gstr6800 From Silver 2 Sexy Bullet Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Hotlanta Posts: 1,198 iTrader: (0)	Ok. There are a number of options you can use here, but I will keep it simple for you. I have divided this up into categories to help you out. Brands don't really matter. In most cases, a good system install has very little wires showing. The construction of the cable is the most important (i.e., twisted, shielded, oxygen-free, etc.) Power and Grounding: When connecting positive (+) and negative (-) cables, you want to make sure you have cables graded to fit the system you are looking to install. The best cable for the job would be twisted, oxygen-free cable. This type of cable will help to eliminate noise and heat transfer. For a good quality install, you will need 4ga. or larger running from your positive battery terminal to your primary fuse. From the fuse, you will continue to run the same size cable to a multi-amp fused distribution block to separate the wiring to the amps. Keep in mind to purchase a block that you will need for your particular installation for a clean setup. From this block, I would run the require wire size to the amps. For your instaaltion, I would use either 4ga. to 8ga. cable. Make sure this cable is smaller than your primary line for proper protection and fusing. Try to make runs as short as possible. If you are using a distribution block, the block should be located close to your amps, so the longest run should be to your battery. As for your negative wire, it should be the same size of one grade larger than your positive wire at the amp. Run this to a distribution block like the positive wires are run. From the distribution block for the negative wires, you will need to ground the primary negative to a "clean" spot on the chassis. Signal Cables: RCA cables make a great bit of difference when it comes to quality sound and alternator noise elimination. You want to make sure you pick up a good set of twisted, oxygen-free cables as well. Make sure you do not get cables that are too long. In most cases, 10' cables will be pushing it, if you placed your amps in the rear. The best way to run these cables would be to remove the console and run them under the carpet from the deck straight back. Power Aids: In addition to power boosts when needed, you can purchase an extra battery, a capacitor, and/or a capcell (if you want both in one). When connecting these, the best connection is closest to the battery, just after the primary fuse. Adding a extra battery provides a good source of power, but your alternator works harder to charge both. It provides clean power to the amps, but takes up a little more space than a capacitor. A capacitor is another helpful addition. Caps are used to provide a boost of power when your amps excede the expectations of the battery. These are smaller than traditional battery additions, but some caps will drain when you hit long bass notes, or when you are listening to pounding sounds that have a high beat-per-minute rate. Installation: Wheninstalling amps, "never" mount the amps to the chassis. That is one easy way to create ground loops. Make sure your distribution blocks are mounted close to the amps and covered to prevent shorts. With this info, you should be able to get a good installation started. There are a ton of brands people will try to sell you on, but construction makes all the difference. Hope this helps. I will add more if you need additional help.
	gstr6800's Sig: -Obama Sponsor and Proud American- SSCLX Club - www.southernstylecruiserslx.com My Car Domain - http://cardomain.com/ride/2527110 Street Dreams Photos - http://www.streetdreams.org/photo/sh...o=2898&cat=509 Train Horn Test - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgGLn01G7ok

08-27-2008, 07:12 PM	#4
11secmagnum Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Coeur d' Alene Idaho Posts: 655 iTrader: (0)	Thanks man that helps me ALOT. Im putting my amps kinda on my box, im boxing them some one in so you cant see ANY wires, and leaving the heat vents on the top open so the LED lights will shine and it will box the amps perfect so you dont see screws or wires. Im going to fiberglass everything so it can be painted.
	11secmagnum's Sig:Viper Hood 3in Coilovers Powdercoated Wheels EBC Green Stuff pads LED Blue underbody LED Blue Nitrous purge Blue Headlight Strobes 180 T-Stat Predetor programer 150 Wet Shot Cold Fusion Nitrous TCM Tuned Hemi Orange Engine bay Polished A/C lines 3 in Cat-less exhaust Kenwood 8019 Touchscreen Shifter boot Switch Panel Alpine Type R 12 Kicker Mids Valentine One Radar system 25% Tint all around 5% Eyebrow Shaved moldings Shaved Rams head Tinted Tails LC-1 Wideband Digital Nitrous Gauge VDI Doors

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08-27-2008, 07:28 PM	#5
txnhockey3 Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Dallas, Texas! Posts: 545 iTrader: (1)	Well gstr covered alot. My only additions would be sure to wire it correctly. What i mean by this is make sure you run power on one side and RCA/Audio on the other side. I think the norm is Audio on the driver side and power on the passenger side. If you run power and audio together you will create noise and lower quality. That and stinger wire for the speakers 2 guage should be good for the amps i mean you dont have to run it far since the battery is right there.....