Hey guys weather was great today had some food friends stop by and assist with the install Bill, Dave, Mark, and Danny thanks so much guys again.
So tools you are gonna need are the following
8mm socket
15mm socket
16mm socket
19mm socket
Breaker bar or impact wrench if u have both great
Jack stands
Jack
And these are the part number u will need to buy either at Chrysler parts or at rockauto.com are the following
Here are the pics of what they look like as well as other numbers if by some really weird reason these don't work
Sorry those came out upside down they won't come out correct
So here is the install.
First jack up the car and place it i'n stands and take off the tires.
Second take off the brake line bolted on by an 8 mm nut i'n both sides.
Next disconnect the strut bolts 2 15mm bolts on each side
Next it's time to lower the cradle get ur jack to hold it i'n place and and lower it to ur liking. There are 4 19mm bolts (2 on each side ) holding the cradle i'n place use an impact wrench or a breaker bar to loosen her up. They are about 6 inches long.
Now after all 4 bolts come off u can lower ur cradle just enough to slide ur sway bar through as Bill is showing u here
Next u are gonna get ur brackets and ur 4 bolts that require 15mm bolts. U had to spray a little degreaser i'n the holes to het some of that gunk out of there. They are a bit tough to get them tight but it goes in.
Now it's time to put the sway links on make sure u put the top ones on both sides on first because then u can't adjust the other side we made that mistake lol.
Once u get those on bolt everything up cradle and brake line and off you go. Hope this helps anyone willing to tackle this project. Not hard at all took us a little over an hr.
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Last edited by Santi; 10-02-2011 at 08:06 PM. Reason: making it a sticky
Nice write up man!! Congrats on the sway's ! They sure make a difference for us v6 guys.. I didn't undo the shock bolts when I did mine and the cradle still dropped down enough, I did have to drop the exhaust though.
hhhmmm thats interesting i didnt have to drip my exhaust cause the bushing and all are welded to the craddle so by dropping the cradle it all came down with it. by releasing the shocks it was able to drop more to make the rear sway go in easy.. Thanks by the way it was fun
I told you it would be a snap Joey. Nice job young man, I was happy to assist.
How's she handle now?
'05 R/T
PPP stage 3 big valve heads - Howards cam 219/227 .600/.575 112 LSA (108 ICL) - PAC 1518 springs - forged pushrods - 6.1 lifters - 6.1 oil pump - 6.1 timing set - Modern Muscle stage 1+ ported 6.1 manifold& 85mm throttle body - 6.1 fuel injectors - 6.1 fuel rails - 25% UDP - Jet 180 tstat - LMI 4" true CAI - MSD "Blaster" coils - 8.2mm Taylor wires - JBA headers - JBA high flow mids - Corsa catback
Diablosport Intune - CMR by Ditos - Paramount "Dominator" 3000 stall tc & stage II valve body - Tranzformer shift kit - 226mm Getrag 3.91 LSD - BC racing coilovers - Eibach front & rear swaysBWoody endlinks - Razors Edge strut bar - Wilwood big brake kit by TCE - W6A 6 piston front calipers on 14.25" 2 piece GT rotors - Dynapro 4 piston rear calipers on 13" 2 piece GT rotorsTrufiber Challenger A58 carbon fiber hood - Vossen VVSCV3 & Nitto 420s - 22" x 9" w/265/35/22 & 22" x 10.5" w/295/30/22 ----- Hemi Registry #943
Very nice write up!! now I have to tackle mine....
Play on Playa!!!
Nice write up. This is one of those installs where it's helpful to have extra hands. Not too tuff though. What kind of sway bar did you go with btw, SRT??? Probably even more noticeable in your ride with all the weight of the stereo equipment in the rear.
05' Mag RT Mods: Eibach Pro System drop, Frankentake IV, Mesh Grill, 20" Gienelle Rims V-5's w/ 275/40/20's,
Flowmaster Force II SS, Challenger 6.1 motor mounts,
6000k DDM HID Kit/Highs, Lows, Fogs, Predator!, 180F T-Stat, No ESP mod, JVC NT3HDT
it sure is Brock and yeah SRT8 sway front and back
Sorry Greg, it's easy, but not that easy. You're going to have to drop the rear cradle. The bags will change the height of the vehicle suspension, not the relationship/attachment of the rear cradle to the chassis
'05 R/T
PPP stage 3 big valve heads - Howards cam 219/227 .600/.575 112 LSA (108 ICL) - PAC 1518 springs - forged pushrods - 6.1 lifters - 6.1 oil pump - 6.1 timing set - Modern Muscle stage 1+ ported 6.1 manifold& 85mm throttle body - 6.1 fuel injectors - 6.1 fuel rails - 25% UDP - Jet 180 tstat - LMI 4" true CAI - MSD "Blaster" coils - 8.2mm Taylor wires - JBA headers - JBA high flow mids - Corsa catback
Diablosport Intune - CMR by Ditos - Paramount "Dominator" 3000 stall tc & stage II valve body - Tranzformer shift kit - 226mm Getrag 3.91 LSD - BC racing coilovers - Eibach front & rear swaysBWoody endlinks - Razors Edge strut bar - Wilwood big brake kit by TCE - W6A 6 piston front calipers on 14.25" 2 piece GT rotors - Dynapro 4 piston rear calipers on 13" 2 piece GT rotorsTrufiber Challenger A58 carbon fiber hood - Vossen VVSCV3 & Nitto 420s - 22" x 9" w/265/35/22 & 22" x 10.5" w/295/30/22 ----- Hemi Registry #943
Greg You will have to drop the cradle. Reason being the cradle is to close to the bottom of the car,witch won't let you manover the sway throught to the other side. Do to the curves of the sway. I tried to slide it through before dropping the cradle it was a no go. Also t it's the only way to get a wrench or air rachet it there to tightin down the bolts on the brackets.
It is critical to mark the location of the rear cradle with a sharpie as it relates to the frame, as there is almost 10mm of play available fore/aft and left/right.
If the cradle was in the corrrect position prior to dropping it, then it's a simple case of re-installing the four cradle bolts finger tight and using a prybar to slid the cradle around to precisely where it was positioned before the drop.
Prior to even lifting the vehicle it is a good idea to check the clearance from the apex of the rear fenders to the corner tread of both left/right tires (while on level ground). Even from the factory the cradle can be off (left or right) creating less of a gap on one side and more on the other. You can then correct for this while the cradle is being re-installed.
Secondly, just prior to lifting the rear of the vehicle another important measurement should be taken with a tape measure from the center of the front wheel (make sure the front wheels point straight ahead) to the center of the rear wheel. As long as the steering wheel is not disturbed while working on the back end, once you drop it back down on all fours you can confirm the cradle has not be installed skewed...which means you would be dog-legging down the road. Note: it's not critical to have the front tires perfectly centered for this measurement; the point being that you want to duplicate whatever measurement you took "after" your finished re-installing the cradle.
Last edited by Hemissary; 04-24-2011 at 02:35 PM.
HEMISSARY ----simon----
Hummmmmmm I never did that when i did mine. But i also never took the rear bolts all the way out just unscrewed them enough to drop the cradle. But every thing looks good and even. At least eye balling it from the front and side also no dogleg when i'm driving my truck behind the wife when shes driving the mag. I got luck i hope!