Unless you're finding puddles each time you drive, I doubt you're out of fluid. Total capacity is about 5.5 qts in the transmission and with the torque converter is about 8.5 qts. There's no dip stick because proper fluid level temperature dependant and critical to operation! If you overfill it, you can blow the seals, etc. and could be looking at major repairs and $$. If I were you, I'd take it to a shop A.S.A.P. and have the fluid level checked properly. Not repairing your leak when first discovered has caused you enough stress already, don't make it worse by blindly adding fluid that you may not need.

Also know that fluid type is critical in the W5A580 (nag1). ATF +4 is the only fluid that should be used.

BTW - Fluid capacities/recommended fluids *

SPECIFICATIONS - FLUID CAPACITIES

DESCRIPTION

SPECIFICATION

Fuel Tank - V6 Engine 68 L (18 gal.)
Fuel Tank - V8 Engine 72 L (19 gal.)
Engine Oil* - 2.7 L 5.7L (6.0 qts.)
Engine Oil* - 3.5 L 5.7L (6.0 qts.)
Engine Oil* - 5.7 L 6.6 L (7.0 qts.)
Engine Oil* - 3.0 L Diesel 8.5 L (9.0 qts.)
Engine Oil* - 6.1 L 6.6 L (7.0 qts.)
Cooling System - 2.7 L** 9.2 L (9.7 qts.)
Cooling System - 3.5 L** 10.0 L (10.6 qts.)
Cooling System - 5.7 L** 13.8 L (14.6 qts.)
Cooling System - 6.1 L** 14.0 L (14.8 qts.)
Cooling System - 3.0 L Diesel** 13.2 L (14.0 qts.) *(includes filter)
*(includes heater and coolant recovery bottle filled to MAX level)
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
Service Fill - NAG1 5.0 L (10.6 pts.) Overhaul Fill - NAG1 7.7 L (16.3 pts.)♦
Service Fill - 42RLE 3.8L (4.0 qts) Overhaul Fill - 42RLE 8.3L (17.6 pts)♦
♦Dry fill capacity. Depending on type and size of internal cooler, length and inside diameter of cooler lines, or use of an auxiliary cooler, these figures may vary.
TRANSFER CASE
MS140 0.6L (1.3 pts.)
AXLE - FRONT
175MM FIA Axle 600 ml (0.63 qts)
AXLE - REAR
198 MM RII Axle 1.4L (1.5 qts.)
210 MM RII Axle 1.6L (1.7 qts.)
215 MM RII Axle 1.6L (1.7 qts.)

RECOMMENDED FLUIDS, LUBRICANTS AND GENUINE PARTS

ENGINE

Component Fluids, Lubricants and Genuine Parts
Engine Coolant Mopar ® Antifreeze/Coolant 5 Year/100,000 Mile Formula HOAT (Hybrid Organic Additive Technology)
Engine Oil (2.7 Liter) Use API Certified engine oil. SAE 5W-20 is recommended. Refer to the engine oil fill cap for the correct SAE grade meeting DaimlerChrysler Material Standard MS-6395.
Engine Oil (3.5 Liter) Use API Certified engine oil. SAE 10W-30 is recommended. Refer to the engine oil viscosity chart for the correct SAE grade meeting DaimlerChrysler Material Standard MS-6395.
Engine Oil (5.7 Liter) Use API Certified engine oil. SAE 5W-20 is recommended. Refer to the engine oil fill cap for the correct SAE grade meeting DaimlerChrysler Material Standard MS-6395.
Engine Oil 6.1 Liter) Use API rated SL/CF full synthetic engine oil, such as Mobil 1® . SAE 0W-40 is recommended.
Spark Plugs Refer to the Vehicle Emission Control Information label in the engine compartment.
Oil Filter (2.7 Liter) Mopar ® 05281090 or equivalent.
Oil Filter (3.5 Liter) Mopar ® 05281090 or equivalent.
Oil Filter (5.7 Liter) Mopar ® 05281090 or equivalent.
Oil Filter (6.1 Liter) Mopar ® 05281090 or equivalent.
Fuel Selection (2.7 Liter) 87 Octane
Fuel Selection (3.5 Liter) 89 Octane
Fuel Selection (5.7 Liter) 89 Octane
Fuel Selection (6.1 Liter) 91 Octane
CHASSIS

Component Fluids, Lubricants and Genuine Parts
Automatic Transmission Mopar ® ATF+4 Automatic Transmission Fluid or equivalent.
Brake Master Cylinder Mopa ® DOT 3 and SAE J1703 or equivalent should be used. Use only recommended brake fluids.
Front Axle API Certified GL-5 SAE 75W90 Synthetic Gear Lubricant or equivalent.
Power Steering Reservoir Mopar ® Power Steering Fluid + 4, Mopar ® ATF+4 Automatic Transmission Fluid or equivalent.
Rear Axle API Certified GL-5 SAE 75W140 Synthetic Gear Lubricant or equivalent.
Transfer Case Mopar ® Transfer Case Lubricant LX, P/N 05170055EA, or equivalent.
CAPACITIES

DESCRIPTION

U.S.

Metric

Fuel (approximate)
2.7 Liter Engines (87 Octane) 18 gallons 68 liters
3.5 Liter Engines (89 Octane) 18 gallons 68 liters
5.7 Liter Engines (89 Octane) 19 gallons 72 liters
Engine Oil-With Filter
2.7 Liter Engines (SAE 5W-20, API Certified) 6.0 qts. 5.7 liters
3.5 Liter Engines (SAE 10W-30, API Certified) 6.0 qts. 5.7 liters
5.7 Liter Engines (SAE 5W-20, API Certified) 7.0 qts. 6.6 liters
6.1 Liter Engines (Mobil 1 0W40, API rated SL/CF full synthetic engine oil) 7.0 qts. 6.6 liters
Cooling System *
2.7 Liter Engines (Mopar ® Antifreeze/Coolant 5 Year/100,000 Mile Formula) or equivalent. 9.7 qts 9.2 liters
3.5 Liter Engines (Mopar ® Antifreeze/Coolant 5 Year/100,000 Mile Formula) or equivalent. 10.6 qts 10.0 liters
5.7 Liter Engines (Mopar ® Antifreeze/Coolant 5 Year/100,000 Mile Formula) or equivalent. 14.6 qts 13.8 liters
6.1 Liter Engines (Mopar ® Antifreeze/Coolant 5 Year/100,000 Mile Formula) or equivalent. 15.2 qts 14.4 liters
* Includes heater and coolant recovery bottle filled to MAX level.
​

 

Well I know I SHOULD have taken it to the dealership, but it was toss up between that and paying my mortgage at the time. The leak seemed to be really hit or miss, sometimes I found a little puddle, sometimes I didnt. Well, I stopped finding any...and now its acting all kinds of wonky. And yes I know what SHOULD have been done, but it was not a monetary possibility at the time :-(

 

Like I said above......The nag1 fluid level is critical to proper operation. The fluid level doesn't have to be very low to cause operational issues.


The most common source of leaking in these transmissions is the electrical connector. There's been a TSB (technical service bulletin) since 2005. It may be too late for you to have it repaired under the TSB for free but know that if it is the connector, it's a $25.00 part and about 30 minutes in labor.

 

Also thats weird, I mean I know I've lost alot of fluid, but nowhere near THAT capacity.

 

I remember seeing that thread. Would you mind posting a link to it again, I might try just changing that connector myself before it goes into the shop on the 20th. I'm guessing I'll have to order the part from the dealership?

 

Would you mind posting a link to it again, I might try just changing that connector myself before it goes into the shop on the 20th.

Give me a few minutes to gather the info. I'll post it here.

See below......Good luck and ask if you get stuck.....Don't guess.

 

gREAT! Thanks

 

Get the car up so you can work underneath it.

On the front of the transmission, above the right front corner of the pan, you'll see the electrical connector (photo #1)

You'll see the yellow "locking ring". rotate the "locking ring" counter clockwise so that the harness (plug) can be removed from the connector.

Pull the plug out of the connector. Inside, you'll see a 7mm hex nut that secures the connector (photo #2) to the connector plate. (photo #3)

Loosen the 7mm hex nut. This screw can not be removed, you'll know when it's loose enough. Now pull on the yellow "locking ring" to remove the connector.

Once the connector is removed, wipe the inside of the connector plate clean and insert the new connector. There are 13 pins in there......Make sure to get them lined up with the new connector! Tighten up the hex nut SNUG ONLY. DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN or the threaded collar inside the connector plate will break off. If this happens, you'll need to replace the whole connector plate.

Once the 7mm hex nut has been snugged, plug the wire harness back in and secure the "locking ring".....DONE!



You may see a little fluid come out but it won't be much.

Remember to have the fluid level checked after repairs. The fluid level is temperature dependant. See chart below for appropriate level per temperature.


#1

#2

#3

 

Way to help a BROTHER out Bill!

 

SH*T THATS PERFECT! Thanks man! Now I just gotta get ahold of the connector...

 

The part number -

Chrysler - #68021352AA

Mercedes - #A 203 540 02 53

Found them cheap on EBAY - $8.00 -

http://www.ebay.com/itm/JEEP-GRAND-CHEROKEE-NAG-TRANSMISSION-CONNECTOR-/140392209546?item=140392209546&vxp=mtr

 

Got mine ordered. Should be here today or Monday!

 

Good deal. Let us know how it goes.

 

Beans to the Fireman...!

 

Well...It did not go well. I got the old one off no problem, but the little hex nut inside the new one WOULD NOT thread into the hole, out of fear of stripping the plate I was very easy with it, it just would NOT start to thread on. Upon closer inspection, the nuts were shaped just slightly different. The one I pulled off almost had a self threading metal screw kind of tip where it was kind of stair stepped from a small point to the point where the threads started. The nut on the new one was actually a smooth shape from the tip to where the threads started, kind of like this /\ I'm guessing thats why I couldn't get the thread started. Anyway, I have an appt at the stealership on the 20th to have the transmission serviced, I'll see if they can get it to thread on and stop the leak while they have it.

 

Hmmm, I'm guessing that you didn't have the connector fully seated and that's why you couldn't get it started. Best to let a shop deal with it if you're having issues.

 

Just realized I never posted my results on this.

The stealership couldn't get it to thread on either. I ordered the Merc part number at the beginning of this thread. After about an hour, the guy in the garage said "yea that thing don't fit" so I felt alittle better about myself because I had spent so long fighting with it. Eventually the mechanic at the shop just used a new OEM one from Chrysler and it slid right into place. Also this did INDEED stop the leak and the wonky shifting. Also a pleasant surprise, the dealership only charged me 2 bucks more than what I paid on Amazon for the one that didn't fit.