This will be a pretty long write up so bare with me..
Things you will need:
Air DA sander
3/4" masking tape (yellow kind)
4 Tubes of SEM Problem Plastic Repair
Adhesive caulking gun air or manual
80 grit DA sand paper
24 Roloc grinder wheel
Air Grinder to fit roloc wheel
40 grit DA sand paper
Fiberglass cloth 15-20 1" wide stips
Sem plastic cleaner or windex
Paint stick to place sand paper on to sand edges and body lines
Here is what the SEM problem plastic repair tubes look like...
The first step is to grind down (using 80 grit first) the areas to be adhered with problem plastic repair adhesive. Both on the grill, the ring that holds the grill in place, and the front fascia * You must remove about a 1" strip of paint all the way down to till you see black in the plastic fascia. All paint must be removed to ensure proper adhesion. Here are some pictures of what it should look like..
You will also want to grind off any edges of the grill, trim ring. You want the grill to be ground down on both sides (front and back side). It will look something like this
Last edited by Chutsk10; 06-25-2012 at 11:05 PM. Reason: Rename title.
Pictures of what the grill will look like when properly prepped.
The reason why the grill must not have any sharp line edges in it is because you do not want it to have the possibility of creating a line over time where you used the SEM problem plastic repair. Remember the front end will flex so avoid curves. Once you follow these steps the front fascia will be very rigid.
Once you have all of the edges ground down on the grill and the trim ring you will want to test fit it to see how the gaps line up. You want the grill to be as flush with the fascia top body line or out a little bit if you can not get a perfect fit. Do not have the grill in further than the fascia body line.
If you have to place nuts inbetween the studs and the trim ring to bring the grill out flush.
Examples of pictures..
Once you like the fit of the grill, now sand all areas to be adhered with 24 grit roloc disc and an air grinder.
Once you have done that clean all areas that were sanded with windex or the sem product, the plastic will give off oils when sanded and cause the problem plastic repair not to adhere.
Once cleaned tape off edges around grill opening to be molded to minimize the mess. Give yourself 2"s around the grill edge when taping.
Once taped then start filling the gaps with problem plastic repair adhesive, try and fill in the lines as much as possible. You will have to repeat this step a few times so do not worry if you do not fill all of the gaps at first.
Once you have run a bead around the grill openings spread the problem plastic repair with a bondo spreader, try and use the spreader to push the product into the openings.This product will set up or kick about 4 minutes.
You can sand it/grind it in about 5 minutes after applied.
If you have some big gaps use this SEM product, it will set up or kick in about 2 minutes so you do not have much time to work with it. Also the temperature outside will cause it activate quicker just bondo. This product does not flow much and sets real fast. So if you are having a hard time with the gaps not filling in use this.
Once the product dries sand it flat and make sure you get a good bite on the problem plastic repair product. Don't be afraid this stuff is very durable and takes a beating. You must sand the first application with 40 grit and a DA also you will probably want to use the 24 grit roloc with grinder. Make sure you get into the gaps that are not filled and sand them so the next batch will adhere to the first batch.
Now once you have sanded the first application, repeat to fill in any gaps. Remember to use a DA to sand body lines and edges. You will want to use a paint stick with sticky 40 grit sand paper to shape the contours and body lines of the fascia and the grill.
Once you have all of the gaps filled and the desired shape and the grill is flush with the fascia body line, sand the areas again to adhere one coat of the problem plastic repair adhesive. The next step you will want to use the 1" pre-cut strips of the fiberglass cloth. Run a bead of the problem plastic repair adhesive (do about 12 inches at a time) spread the bead flat and place the fiberglass cloth over the areas to be molded. You want about 1/2 over lap of where the gap was that was filled with problem plastic repair adhesive.
Complete this step all the way around.
Last edited by bubbamagnum; 07-24-2008 at 10:56 PM.
Once you have gone all the way around with the fiberglass cloth and covered the areas of the grill, now run a bead of the problem plastic repair on top of the fiberglass cloth and smooth it out. Once this dries sand it down. Shape body lines and smooth out the surface. You should no gaps and so seams just a smoothed grill now.
You will have to use some glaze to skim the surface before you primer and paint the bumper, but at this stage the hard work is done.
Now if you want to ensure the grill does not ever crack flip the front fascia over and place on a stand and repeat the process on the back side. The back side does not need to be pretty because you will never see it.
Here are some pictures.. Remember to sand all areas good with 24 roloc grit and a grinder, also use a DA with 40 grit to get into tight areas. You must sand inbetween each coat of problem plastic repair.
Here are some pictures of the final steps and what the finished product looks like. I will also post more pics of the chin spoiler molded in. The project will probably take you about 8-10 hours.
Okay, now it looks like you're done with the post.
I must apologize for jumping into the middle of the write up.
No worries tho. I went back in and deleted my entry.
Now.... Great write up indeed.
This is going to be so amazing when it's all said and done.
Your "Prom Date" will make you King of the Prom for sure, LOL!
Nice work Kiley.
Last edited by Magmania; 07-24-2008 at 11:54 PM.
~ In Loving Memory of Danny Cox (5.27.92 - 8.7.11) ~
No problem Dave, it is late!! Thanks for the compliment.. The car is really coming together now... still a lot of work to do..... details.... details...
Holy Cow! If/when I did the Danko Predator Grille I would have to mold it in, the result is definitely worth the labor involved. Great write-up.
Great write up Kiley!!!! Man... I can't wait to see your ride finished!!!!!
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Great write up Kiley! Are you the one doing all the work?
Can NOT wait to see it done. Looks great so far. BTW, I love the insperation photo taped on the windshield. Nice touch. Just think, not to long from now you will be showin her off at a show and going threw the pics of what it took to get there! Crazy how things work like that.
That's one great write-up... It's going to look great once it's all done... This obviously is not a 'do at home' project... LOL
Looking forward to the final pics...
I know the end product is great looking, but sooooooo much work to get those results. Glad I don't work in a body shop, I wouldn't last long.
Not with my Asthma..............
I think I will just leave my Danko Grill bolted on..............
Thanks for all the information and photos.
Bob in Ocala, Florida (73 year old guy who loves cars), 05' Magnum RT.
Many mod's, all of Danko products and a few 402 Motoring items.
I've owned my share of 12 & 13 sec. cars, my stock RT suits me just fine.