I replaced my OEM tension struts with Mevo Tech tension struts purchased from Rock Auto. So how does the Mevo Tech part match up to the OEM?

Obviously, they are identical dimensionally. So, let's examine the end connections. Looking at the bushing, we can see that it is pretty much an identical design to the OEM. Argue for yourself whether or not this is a good thing. What I'm not sure of is whether or not the rubber compound is the same. Search around and you will find an article detailing the Mopar redesigned bushing that is somewhat different than what is pictured below.

You can also see in the picture below just how badly torn my bushing was.

Now let's examine the ball joint end. Again they are nearly identical. The Mevo Tech tension strut comes with a new nut and a grease zert so that the ball joint is now greasable. The OEM tension strut is a sealed component. You will want to assemble the grease zert and ball joint at this time. An 8mm socket fits on the grease zert nicely. Do NOT over tighten! You will strip out the treads. You will also notice the difference in the boot design. Is this a "better" design? My gut instinct says yes.

Now that we have the old tension strut out and the new one ready to go, let's clean up the mounting areas to prep them for the new tension strut. I used paper towels and brake cleaner.

Ball joint end (before cleaning)...

Bushing end...

Notice the impression left on the mounting surface of the bushing end above. I believe that my vibration was so severe that it left these impressions.

With everything cleaned up, slide the new tension strut in place in the opposite manner outlined above. With the bushing end in its mount and the ball joint lined up in the hole, put the nut on the ball joint end by hand just to keep it in place. Then line up the bolt in the bushing end and put the washer and nut on by hand.

Now we will secure the ball joint end. I found that the nut supplied with the Mevo Tech tension strut was larger than the OEM so I had to use a 7/8" box wrench to fasten it since I did not have a 7/8" socket. Plus, the ratchet would not have worked anyway. We'll get to that in a second. Eventhough the 7/8" wrench worked well, I believe that the proper size is likely 22mm. You will note that there is a 6mm allen wrench hole on the end of the ball joint threads. You will need to use this to secure the ball joint nut. Be sure to turn the wrench, not the allen wrench.

As I put the final turns on the nut with the bolt on the bushing end still loose, I discovered some movement in the entire suspension that shows what was happening with the torn bushings. Just imagine this happening at 60mph!!

http://s358.photobucket.com/albums/...om/albums/oo28/stingrayj/Tension Strut Repair/?action=view&current=100_3566.mp4

Secure the bolt/nut on the bushing end using the same tools as you used to remove it. Fill your new ball joint with grease, and reassemble your brakes. Don't forget to secure the brake line bracket. Mount your wheel and secure the engine cover with the 10mm bolts.

Congratulations! You just saved yourself roughly $630 (difference between the cost of the parts with shipping and the quoted price I received to have a shop do the job...both sides).

 

Wow Dejavu!! Nice wright up. Is that a hole in your new one? Just wonder I think mine were solid but could be wrong.

 

The side of the bushing closest to the nose of the car is formed to be mostly open. Some material is "webbed" (for lack of a better term) across this opening so that only some of it is open the whole way through. The OEM part is exactly the same way.

Here's a pic of the old OEMs. You can see the open end that I am referring to. Driver's side on the left. Passenger's side on the right.

 

wow amazing write up bro

 

Nice write up. You can also buy srt8 tension struts because they also beefier...

 

GREAT Write up!!! SO this I assume was the shaking and noise?!?! Thank You for taking the time and showing how this is done....

 

GREAT Write up!!! SO this I assume was the shaking and noise?!?! Thank You for taking the time and showing how this is done....

This was only part of the problem. I still have a vibration.

Just for future reference of anyone reading this thread, here is the history of my most recent vibration/shaking issues that lead to this write up:
http://www.custommagnums.com/forums/suspension-forum/40083-magnum-has-shakes-still.html

Impressive write up. Front end suspension work is not my fave.

I am growing very tired of repairing the front suspension too. Unfortunately, I'm getting so much "practice" recently that I am getting quite good at it!

 

Impressive write up. Front end suspension work is not my fave.

 

great writeup, beans to you....and i hope this get's you one step closer to getting rid of the shaking problem.....

 

very nice right up!

I know that these bushings on the OE tension struts have been very problematic. Dodge updated the bushing and many of the LX owners are replacing theirs with the newest SRT version regardless of what model LX they have.

5290828AA and 5290829AA (Right and Left)

Something that I would like to note, and I apologize it it was stated in the right up or in a reply, I did not see it...

You MUST have the weight of the vehicle fully preloading the suspension before torquing the tension strut bushing or the lower control arm bushing!
They will fail prematurely if you don't do this! These bushings are under 'bush bind' when they deflect going over bumps. If you tighten them in any position other than the actual ride height, they will always be under 'bush bind' literally trying to tear the bushing.

 

Thanks for the heads up. I'll see if I can correct that. We actually have some decent weather coming up soon too.

 

Great write up! I did mine a few weeks ago and if you have access to a lift you do not need to remove the brake components, you can whack the ball joint from under the car. I only had to take of the wheels.

 

Great write up! about how long did it take you? I am having the same problems so this looks a spring project!

 

The first one that I did took me about 2.5 hours. I couldn't find a good write up on how to do the job anywhere so I spent a lot of time screwing around just trying to figure out how to attack the job. The second one, which is detail above, took me about 2 hours. But, I was screwing around again taking all of the pictures for the write up. So, if I had to do it again (knock on wood) I'd say that it would take me about 1.5 hours per side from the first lift to the time the car is back on the ground.

 

I need to do this and sway bushings. Then I think I will have replaced every suspension part on my car. Thanks for the write up.

 

i just did my tension struts on my 07 SE and after putting the new ones on and got it aligned the sterring wheel still is not straight. did you have to do anything different on the install than just putting the new ones on and cleaning up the areas?

 

That is your alignment tech that should have corrected the steering wheel alignment. They should strighten the steering wheel before aligning and they have a device that holds the steering wheel in place while they align the vehicle.
To correct it, they will end up adding toe to one side and removing the exact amount from the other.


Good luck!

 

This has been a VERY useful write-up! Great pics and descriptions! This will definitely come in handy! Great job..

 

Hey do you happen to have the part number for the right Mevo tension strut? I cant find it on RockAutos cat. so I wanted to phone them to see if they were still available.

Thanks in advance!

 

Thank you!!!!!

Thanks so much for the right up with thepictures the shop was trying to tell me you have to have speciel tools to replace them and was refusing to use the ones I bought off line and wanted to charge over $800 to replace. I will be in the garage tonight getting these done.Thanks again!!!!!

 

I ordered both from rock auto cost $33 each plus shipping. They are Dorman Dor 521-122 and Dor 521-121. Let me know if you need anymore info I can pull the invoice.

 

Well I replaced both my lower control arms yesterday. This writeup was a great help. Importantly, it helped me to know that I needed to buy a 21/22mm socket before I got started.

Thanks for the write up. My clunk is gone!! After replacing my sway bar end links, bushings, and brake calipers, I found the source as these control arms. It's enjoyable to drive my car again
:cool5:

 

great write up just a note i have been doing a lot of them lately i have it down to 15 mins a side i do not remove the caliper or rotor any more and i only remove the 3 plastic clips in front of the wheel i have done at least 2 sets a week for the last 3 weeks this is a very easy job the tension struts cost me 42.00 each from my local parts store

 

Hey, this is a great thread. I used it as a guide for changing my tension struts. It surely cured my clunking noise. Thanks!

 

I got my parts and plan to do this install on the weekend. I have one questions that I couldn't really see addressed here: do you need an alignment after changing the strut? Thanks,

 

It's not a bad idea to have it checked anytime you replace front end components.

 

Thanks for this. The pictures were great help!.

 

To stiffen up our suspensions we used to pack the holes in the new bushings with silicone. Its seemed to make them a little stronger. I might try it if I find out mine are bad. (which i'm sure they are since just about everything is broken on my mag).....

 

Thanks for the write-up... now I dont have to pay the stealership!!!

 

As mentioned good write up. Whats the part numbers I need from Rockauto? I looked on there wedsite and can't find tension struts.

 

If u look under control arms, they will be there. The part #'s I received this week was MS25120 & MS25121 Mevotech, There are cheaper ones like Dorman. Hope this helps