its happened a few times this past month and it when im jus sitting idiling the rpms will go very low and the car will shake a little like it is going to die but dosent and stays on it runs fine after and before, just dont know if it is normal or if this could be the start of a major problem the car has 75000 mile on it and two aftermarket batteries wired together that have no problem starting the car
Same thing happens here, I thought it was a bad spark plug, I changed the plugs, same thing. Next up is the timing belt.
probably not your timing chain. check for vaccuum leak, spark, wires/coil
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It's apparently a somewhat common problem on the SXT and I have heard of two possible explinatons.
An excess build up of carbon in the engine. There was a tech service bulletin (TSB) for this which recommended a valve cleaning as the solution. I myself just ran some injector cleaner for a few tanks and it appeared to help a little bit.
My mechanic pointed out to me that even when you are not running your A/C the A/C compressor will still cycle on and off. When it cycles on the drive pulley is engaged and the extra resistance causes the RPMs to dip momentarily before the car realizes what's going on and brings the RPM's back up. This is not something you would notice while driving but it is possible to feel it while idling.
I have a 2007 SE with 47000 and have had the same issue. I had it looked at and they can't seem to pinpoint the issue either. I have questioned whether it could be a vacuum leak as well.
same thing with me as well,bought car brand new in oct of 04 and i have 117xxx miles on now and still does the same thing.thats just how the engine is.theres nothing wrong with it
I cant say i have the same exact problem but i noticed that when im going up hills my rpms seems to dip then when i press the gas a little more my rpms jump up dramatically. If you have a answer please let me know. thanks
For the stumbling issue two likely culprits:
1. Oil and/or carbon build-up in the intake tract, coating the TB, TPS and IAC (air bleeder valve). Clean out the intake tract, clean the TB, TPS and IAC. Run some seafoam through it which will remove any of the carbon on the backside of the valves as well, while also cleaning off pistons tops. Have a new set of plugs on hand as after the seafoam you'll want to swap in plugs (*if you are using iridium's, throw in the cheapo NGK/Champion etc, coppers for the seafoam, then you don't have to spend the added $ on iridiums again).
B. EGR Valve- if its getting clogged up, or the diaphragm is leaking, replace the EGR-V. Often times it will have a slight enough leak that it may cause issues, but not trip the CEL and set a diagnostic code.
As for the issue of rpms drop going uphill, then rpm increase.... That is normal. Uphill loads the engine more thus lowering the RPM. Pressing the throttle increase the RPM as well as it is most likely either downshifting the transmission due to TPS position vs Speed vs Load, or simply unlocking the TCC.
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do as cat3 said...
shown my robs sxt here Cleaning the TB
egr and idk...maybe a fuel filter
common in diesel trucks when fuel filters go bad
that would be the next thing id check
Ahhhh VTEC, all of the lag, none of the turbo....it's like waiting for bad sex
If the rough idle is accompanied by a drop in engine speed when the air conditioner goes on, it may be that the engine is not getting enough air. Clean the throttle body, then check to make sure the idle air controller is clean and has full travel to the open position. (Take off the idle air controller, check for free movement, and give it a good visual inspection to make sure it is clean. It may need a shot of carb cleaner on the moving surfaces.
FCT: Check to make sure that the fuel rail recall was done (where applicable).
Mark: The engine is prone to intake manifold gasket problems that can cause a rough idle.
"Mopar Man and Woman:" "Remove and clean both throttle bodies. Synchronize throttle bodies. Remove IAC (ASI) [idle air speed/automatic idle speed] motor, but do not spray or soak with cleaner. Wipe tip off with cleaner on shop towel. Spray cleaner into bore in manifold. Make sure that hose that goes to air cleaner duct to intake right behind IAC is not blocked, collapsed etc. This is the source for air flow to the IAC on the 3.5L.
Perform minimum air flow test with DRB or other Scanner - should be 500-650rpm. If above, suspect vac leak, if low you have throttle body problems. At full operating temp, curb idle, what are desired IAC steps? Try cylinder balance test with scanner. If one or two cylinders are slightly different than rest, suspect intake manifold gasket failure. Also, after each repair, before starting, reset adaptive memory in PCM with scanner."
Cesar: "Just thought I share a similar problem I had with my 97 Eagle Vision w/3.5L that drove a lot technicians crazy, including field support folks, for 8 working days! The problem was one of the camshaft was slightly out of alignment in respect to its sprocket. This problem started after a water pump housing ("rear timing belt cover") was replaced and fuel rail recall performed. The symptoms I had after this effort was rough idle similar to the problem you've described. To verify valve timing on this engine there is a camshaft alignment special tool 6642 that must be used."
There may also be a problem with the MAP sensor - click here for instructions on diagnosing this.
There may also be a problem with the EGR sensor (repalcement guide)
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Mine does the really bad stutter when its cold out. I have to be extra careful when starting onto the main street because it feels like the car falls on its face. Other than that, it has done it once or twice during the warmer months.
same thing here the engine dying when im at the stop sign or I rev it hard and let go. I added fuel cleaner now it wont die but settles to 530 rpms on idle and in neutral. makes a sputer sound but wakes right back up. I may have a vacuum leak somewhere. 76,000 miles on my sxt from 07 with a catch can.
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Sat it on 'em 22 ..............Birds go for 22
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I put a full tank of 93 octane in my car plus a can of sea foam and it solved the problem! Give it a try cheap fix. Dont get that cheap fuel cleaner the sea foam is the answer. $9.99
yo, yo, yup, just like cat3 said, i cleaned my throtle body butterfly with tb cleaner , cleaned the k/n filter n put sea foam in a full tank n wallah mine hasnt been a problem for 2oo mi now, (mine was die about every 15 mi r so) one of them seemed to work for me., hope i helped ya