How To: Replace the Oil Pressure Sensor (5.7L V8)

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  1. #16
    Senior Member waldo's Avatar
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    Great write-up... it'll be handy fairly soon, as I'd like to replace (or add) the sensor, in order to put in an oil pressure gauge. (I hate idiot lights)

    As I'm writing this though, a question comes to mind. It's obviously the sensor is tied into the computer system in the car, soooo... is there a way to add an oil pressure gauge. If so, would I install a "T" fitting in order to utilize both sensors, or can a pressure sensor for a gauge be installed at a different, more easily accessed location on the engine?
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  3. #17
    Member TXHEMI's Avatar Array
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    Knocked this out today. Yep PITA. Had my sensor been a 1/4 turn further on factory installation, I believe I may have completed this task w/o removal of the alt. As it were I couldnt reach the pin so I had to go the longer route to replace. Less than 2 hours (more like 1 if I hadn't spent so much time avoiding removing the alt). I installed the new one with the red pin on the bottom so it will be easier next time. (my socket was a 27 mm)

    Thanks for the write up & including pix. Props to you folks who do this w/ only removing the belt.
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  4. #18
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    P0520 code today. Shucks, I thought this issue was resolved 2 weeks ago.
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  6. #19
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    I had mine changed out the prob didnt start until the shop performed an oil change and used 10/30 instead of 5/20 i got the codes checked at autozone and i got p0520 and p1251 i believe oil sensor and pending transmission error went back to oil shop had oil change corrected and codes reset check engine light came back soon as i turned the car off and restarted well I bought the part from the dealership luckily at dealership cost had to get my brakes changed the shop said they would change the sensor for me also at no cost. Had the code reset and no problems after that no work done at the dealership all at shop that performed the oil change they said that oil was leaking from sensor switch. I tried to do it myself like prev post said you could do it without removing any parts, I don't know how small that guys hand is but that shit didn't work for me
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  7. #20
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    yep had the part added and code reset as soon as i hit 100 miles after work p0520 and p1521 popped back on.anyone else have any other answers for this...... damn time for registration soon..... if i were to get the codes reset and had my emission performed as soon as reset do you think i will pass...
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  8. #21
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    Quote: Originally Posted by thatown2 View Post
    yep had the part added and code reset as soon as i hit 100 miles after work p0520 and p1521 popped back on.anyone else have any other answers for this...... damn time for registration soon..... if i were to get the codes reset and had my emission performed as soon as reset do you think i will pass...

    headed to the dealership becuase the shop said that the problem was most likely the wiring and that the didnt handle that. so i took it to the dealership after the diagnostic they said that they were getting power from the wires and that the oil sensor was bad luckly it was still under warrenty even tho i bought it about 5 months ago i just put it in, they replaced it with another part.... i'm happy i get home the next damn day the engine light is back on with the oil light... now i am getting code 0522 the oil light went off after the car warmed up call the shop back they said prev i was getting an oil pressure sensor high error and now a low error or something like that but anyway i'm back up here now....
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  9. #22
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    So about two months later, new programmer installed and several runs made- still have the P0520 code. $35-60 do I fix, again?
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  10. #23
    Shaolin Ch'uan Fa Fireman2118's Avatar



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    Quote: Originally Posted by TXHEMI View Post
    So about two months later, new programmer installed and several runs made- still have the P0520 code. $35-60 do I fix, again?
    Did you clean out the sensor connector plug? Are the wires intact? Is the connection between the sensor and plug ok? If the connector plug and wires are good and the plug is clean, try another sensor.




    '05 R/T

    PPP stage 3 big valve heads - Howards cam 219/227 .600/.575 112 LSA (108 ICL) - PAC 1518 springs - forged pushrods - 6.1 lifters - 6.1 oil pump - 6.1 timing set - Modern Muscle stage 1+ ported 6.1 manifold
    & 85mm throttle body - 6.1 fuel injectors - 6.1 fuel rails - 25% UDP - Jet 180 tstat - LMI 4" true CAI - MSD "Blaster" coils - 8.2mm Taylor wires - JBA headers - JBA high flow mids - Corsa catback - Diablosport Intune
    Paramount series 55, stage 1 transmission, "Dominator" 3000 stall tc & stage II valve body - Tranzformer shift kit - B&M Hi-Tek transmission cooler - 226mm Getrag 3.91 LSD - BC racing coilovers - Eibach front & rear sways
    Prothane & Whiteline bushing kit - BWoody endlinks - Razors Edge strut bar - Wilwood big brake kit by TCE - W6A 6 piston front calipers on 14.25" 2 piece GT rotors - Dynapro 4 piston rear calipers on 13" 2 piece GT rotors
    Trufiber Challenger A58 carbon fiber hood - Vossen VVS-CV3 & Nitto 420s - 22" x 9" w/265/35/22 & 22" x 10.5" w/295/30/22 - tuning by Ditos motors ---- Hemi Registry #943


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  11. #24
    Senior Member D-LASH's Avatar
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    When you changed it out, did you clean the plug out? I sprayed wd-40 and used some lung power to make sure it was good and dry, then hooked up the new one. It's been good since...but if you didnt clean it out, that might be the problem, just a thought
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  12. #25
    Member TXHEMI's Avatar Array
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    I did not clean it out enough I will admit (dummy). Also the plug looks slightly mistreated (not me) so maybe I should replace the plug & sensor? Shes running strong still thankfully.
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  13. #26
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    Quote: Originally Posted by TXHEMI View Post
    I did not clean it out enough I will admit (dummy). Also the plug looks slightly mistreated (not me) so maybe I should replace the plug & sensor? Shes running strong still thankfully.
    Clean out the plug and sensor connection!




    '05 R/T

    PPP stage 3 big valve heads - Howards cam 219/227 .600/.575 112 LSA (108 ICL) - PAC 1518 springs - forged pushrods - 6.1 lifters - 6.1 oil pump - 6.1 timing set - Modern Muscle stage 1+ ported 6.1 manifold
    & 85mm throttle body - 6.1 fuel injectors - 6.1 fuel rails - 25% UDP - Jet 180 tstat - LMI 4" true CAI - MSD "Blaster" coils - 8.2mm Taylor wires - JBA headers - JBA high flow mids - Corsa catback - Diablosport Intune
    Paramount series 55, stage 1 transmission, "Dominator" 3000 stall tc & stage II valve body - Tranzformer shift kit - B&M Hi-Tek transmission cooler - 226mm Getrag 3.91 LSD - BC racing coilovers - Eibach front & rear sways
    Prothane & Whiteline bushing kit - BWoody endlinks - Razors Edge strut bar - Wilwood big brake kit by TCE - W6A 6 piston front calipers on 14.25" 2 piece GT rotors - Dynapro 4 piston rear calipers on 13" 2 piece GT rotors
    Trufiber Challenger A58 carbon fiber hood - Vossen VVS-CV3 & Nitto 420s - 22" x 9" w/265/35/22 & 22" x 10.5" w/295/30/22 - tuning by Ditos motors ---- Hemi Registry #943


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  14. #27
    Senior Member D-LASH's Avatar
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    Quote: Originally Posted by TXHEMI View Post
    I did not clean it out enough I will admit (dummy). Also the plug looks slightly mistreated (not me) so maybe I should replace the plug & sensor? Shes running strong still thankfully.
    if it looks damaged, then probably, got a pic???
    if it needs to be replaced, this might be it
    http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...2nRvJCZb2niO3Q

    does that look right Bill?
    Last edited by D-LASH; 04-15-2012 at 06:40 PM.
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  15. #28
    Member TXHEMI's Avatar Array
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    I'll jump into it this weekend and see. I'm going to clean and dry it properly this time and see.

    Damn things a rocket... Almost blocked out the check engine light w/ the gleam off my smile.
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  16. #29
    Member TXHEMI's Avatar Array
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    Took out the switch and oil is getting past the switch into the connection. Cleaned all associated parts, got the code again w/ in 15 min on first drive. Seems I'll have to replace it again. Although who gives a crap, I'm okay w/ the check engine light as long as she's running strong. I am almost 100% positive it will throw the code again if I replace the switch.....
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  17. #30
    Shaolin Ch'uan Fa Fireman2118's Avatar



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    Quote: Originally Posted by TXHEMI View Post
    Took out the switch and oil is getting past the switch into the connection. Cleaned all associated parts, got the code again w/ in 15 min on first drive. Seems I'll have to replace it again. Although who gives a crap, I'm okay w/ the check engine light as long as she's running strong. I am almost 100% positive it will throw the code again if I replace the switch.....
    You may not have cleaned the connection well enough.




    '05 R/T

    PPP stage 3 big valve heads - Howards cam 219/227 .600/.575 112 LSA (108 ICL) - PAC 1518 springs - forged pushrods - 6.1 lifters - 6.1 oil pump - 6.1 timing set - Modern Muscle stage 1+ ported 6.1 manifold
    & 85mm throttle body - 6.1 fuel injectors - 6.1 fuel rails - 25% UDP - Jet 180 tstat - LMI 4" true CAI - MSD "Blaster" coils - 8.2mm Taylor wires - JBA headers - JBA high flow mids - Corsa catback - Diablosport Intune
    Paramount series 55, stage 1 transmission, "Dominator" 3000 stall tc & stage II valve body - Tranzformer shift kit - B&M Hi-Tek transmission cooler - 226mm Getrag 3.91 LSD - BC racing coilovers - Eibach front & rear sways
    Prothane & Whiteline bushing kit - BWoody endlinks - Razors Edge strut bar - Wilwood big brake kit by TCE - W6A 6 piston front calipers on 14.25" 2 piece GT rotors - Dynapro 4 piston rear calipers on 13" 2 piece GT rotors
    Trufiber Challenger A58 carbon fiber hood - Vossen VVS-CV3 & Nitto 420s - 22" x 9" w/265/35/22 & 22" x 10.5" w/295/30/22 - tuning by Ditos motors ---- Hemi Registry #943


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