How To: Replace the Tension Struts

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  1. #31
    Member HBADGE's Avatar Array
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    Hey do you happen to have the part number for the right Mevo tension strut? I cant find it on RockAutos cat. so I wanted to phone them to see if they were still available.

    Thanks in advance!
     
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  3. #32
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    Thumbs upThank you!!!!!

    Thanks so much for the right up with thepictures the shop was trying to tell me you have to have speciel tools to replace them and was refusing to use the ones I bought off line and wanted to charge over $800 to replace. I will be in the garage tonight getting these done.Thanks again!!!!!
     
  4. #33
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    I ordered both from rock auto cost $33 each plus shipping. They are Dorman Dor 521-122 and Dor 521-121. Let me know if you need anymore info I can pull the invoice.
     
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  6. #34
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    Quote: Originally Posted by lowendboy View Post
    You MUST have the weight of the vehicle fully preloading the suspension before torquing the tension strut bushing or the lower control arm bushing!
    They will fail prematurely if you don't do this! These bushings are under 'bush bind' when they deflect going over bumps. If you tighten them in any position other than the actual ride height, they will always be under 'bush bind' literally trying to tear the bushing.
    Thank you for this writeup. It is awesome.

    I have a 2006 Charger RT and I have the annoying clunking. It seems to have gotten worse with time and it's to the point now that it's intolerable.

    So far, I have replaced my sway bar end links and bushings, which did nothing. I have narrowed it down to my tension struts, because I can grab them and there is some play where the strut connects to the chasis.


    I plan to order the parts tonight but I have a question about the part I quoted above:

    Can you explain how I can preload the suspension? I don't want to mess something up and I have done very little suspension work, prior to replacing the sway bar end links.
     
  7. #35
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    Quote: Originally Posted by jp547 View Post
    Thank you for this writeup. It is awesome.

    I have a 2006 Charger RT and I have the annoying clunking. It seems to have gotten worse with time and it's to the point now that it's intolerable.

    So far, I have replaced my sway bar end links and bushings, which did nothing. I have narrowed it down to my tension struts, because I can grab them and there is some play where the strut connects to the chasis.


    I plan to order the parts tonight but I have a question about the part I quoted above:

    Can you explain how I can preload the suspension? I don't want to mess something up and I have done very little suspension work, prior to replacing the sway bar end links.

    to preload the suspension, with the suspension assembled, any bolts that you loosened on bushings that can bind should be kept slightly loose, like the tension strut and lower control arm bushings. Then set the car on the ground and jounce the car several times. the best way is to drive it up and down your neighborhood street and then bring it back and tighten those fasteners to the recommended torque while the vehicle is still resting on the wheels and suspension naturally (preloaded)

    I hope that helps.

    Regards
    Last edited by lowendboy; 08-02-2011 at 07:56 PM.
     
  8. #36
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    Well I replaced both my lower control arms yesterday. This writeup was a great help. Importantly, it helped me to know that I needed to buy a 21/22mm socket before I got started.

    Thanks for the write up. My clunk is gone!! After replacing my sway bar end links, bushings, and brake calipers, I found the source as these control arms. It's enjoyable to drive my car again
     
  9. #37
    Senior Member CAT3's Avatar


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    Quote: Originally Posted by lowendboy View Post
    to preload the suspension, with the suspension assembled, any bolts that you loosened on bushings that can bind should be kept slightly loose, like the tension strut and lower control arm bushings. Then set the car on the ground and jounce the car several times. the best way is to drive it up and down your neighborhood street and then bring it back and tighten those fasteners to the recommended torque while the vehicle is still resting on the wheels and suspension naturally (preloaded)

    I hope that helps.

    Regards
    Lowend, I have in the past (other makes/models) having the car supported on stands, used a floor jack on suspension to load it up, barely lifting that side off the stand, and then torqued. Would this produce any different result than the jounce/road-test? I can't see that it would, figuring in the dynamics of suspension action/reaction, but figure why not discuss it

    Charlie~ Yeah, I'm doing my tension struts tonight as well, or tomorrow.
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  10. #38
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    Quote: Originally Posted by CAT3 View Post
    Lowend, I have in the past (other makes/models) having the car supported on stands, used a floor jack on suspension to load it up, barely lifting that side off the stand, and then torqued. Would this produce any different result than the jounce/road-test? I can't see that it would, figuring in the dynamics of suspension action/reaction, but figure why not discuss it

    Charlie~ Yeah, I'm doing my tension struts tonight as well, or tomorrow.

    Charlie,

    Sorry for the late response.
    Your technique is the second best method and will be very close to the 'best' position for torque the bushing.
    the height the you plan to tighten it will likely be just slightly higher than the ride height after jouncing and the natural settling. Also, the position of the car when you do each corner is relative!
    The weight on the wheel you are working on will be determined by what weight you have on the other corners and their ride height, ie whether the other wheels are on jack stands, the ground or other.

    I hope that makes sense. Your way will be very close and will be significantly better than not preloading at all.
     
  11. #39
    loven the super charged life jayalbertcars's Avatar

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    great write up just a note i have been doing a lot of them lately i have it down to 15 mins a side i do not remove the caliper or rotor any more and i only remove the 3 plastic clips in front of the wheel i have done at least 2 sets a week for the last 3 weeks this is a very easy job the tension struts cost me 42.00 each from my local parts store

    DODGE MAGNUM "THE POSSIBLITIES ARE ENDLESS "
     
  12. #40
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    Hey, this is a great thread. I used it as a guide for changing my tension struts. It surely cured my clunking noise. Thanks!
     
  13. #41
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    I got my parts and plan to do this install on the weekend. I have one questions that I couldn't really see addressed here: do you need an alignment after changing the strut? Thanks,
     
  14. #42
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    Quote: Originally Posted by Larsen View Post
    I got my parts and plan to do this install on the weekend. I have one questions that I couldn't really see addressed here: do you need an alignment after changing the strut? Thanks,
    It's not a bad idea to have it checked anytime you replace front end components.




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  15. #43
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    Thanks for this. The pictures were great help!.
     
  16. #44
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    To stiffen up our suspensions we used to pack the holes in the new bushings with silicone. Its seemed to make them a little stronger. I might try it if I find out mine are bad. (which i'm sure they are since just about everything is broken on my mag).....
     
  17. #45
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    Thanks for the write-up... now I dont have to pay the stealership!!!
     
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