Magnum has the shakes...still

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  1. #76
    The Grand WAZOO! Radglenn's Avatar



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    I had the same problem with a caliper.. front left, on a Plymouth MiniVan.. After replacing the Master Cylinder, Vacuum Booster, Front lines, the caliper AGAIN. I found the proportioning block was bad... I don't know if an ABS equipped car has one.. but it had a "little bitty" bit of dirt in it causing it not to slide and release the pressure on the front calipers......BUT it was only the Drivers side that kept toasting... GOOD LUCK!!
    2008 R/T/R, 100hp ZEX system, LED tails, Stealth bulbs, DUAL color interior lights, lockpick, rear camera, Digital TV,
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  3. #77
    Quando omni flunkus moritati. stingrayj's Avatar Array
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    The other wheels seem fine. It's just the right front that is locking up. I know that it is getting fluid to the caliper based on what I did to it yesterday, but it is not relieving the pressure. Which component actually relieves the pressure? Do you think that replacing JUST the caliper will fix the issue?
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  4. #78
    Quando omni flunkus moritati. stingrayj's Avatar Array
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    Just installed the new (reman) caliper from NAPA. The caliper itself was blasted and included a new bleeder valve. The kit also came with a new bracket that was painted black with new guide pins (which were sticking) and bolts (which were bigger than the OEM bolts). I chose not to use the bracket since it would look goofy painted black and the guide pins were sticking. The kit also had new clips for the pads and seals for the banjo bolt.

    I reused the OEM caliper bracket (as mentioned above), guide pins and bolts, pad clips, and the dust boot for the bleeder valve (since the reman caliper did not include one). Everything was pretty easy to install. I did not seal off the brake line since it was not dripping much at all. I just let it hang and drip.

    I got everything together and bled out. I put the wheel on and gave it the spin test to see if the rotor was warped. There was a little sticking, but that could be pad transfer. The good news is that the wheel does spin freely now. So far it is looking good!

    I'll update in the morning after I get a chance to drive it on the highway. Hopefully this will be the end of it!
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  6. #79
    The Grand WAZOO! Radglenn's Avatar



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    Good Luck brother! you deserve a break!!!!!! I will be waiting here in the morning for the GOOD NEWS!
    2008 R/T/R, 100hp ZEX system, LED tails, Stealth bulbs, DUAL color interior lights, lockpick, rear camera, Digital TV,
    PAPPAJOHN Shifter, Karl's Kustom Plate, BlastinBob 6db kit, BigBully CAI, 8000K DDM Lows and Fogs,
    3G ABS, RAD, Firewall Covers, NC-SXT Grill, Diablo, KILLERGLASS, Wheel well lights,
    AIRBRUSHED ENGINE COVER, Painted Calipers, 100HP NITROUS! One of 116 Built!!!!!
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  7. #80
    Hemi? Noooooooo! gangster wagon's Avatar


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    No more shakeing MOJO for you!!! Man u need a break from this prob so hope it works out finally!!
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  8. #81
    Quando omni flunkus moritati. stingrayj's Avatar Array
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    Given that I am extremely paranoid about every shake, wobble, rattle, or any other possible thing a car could do (including operating the way it is supposed to), I'd say that I am close to resolving this issue. The ride to work this morning was definitely positive. There was a bit of an unsettled bobbling over washboard roads (which we have a lot of around here). I have a times thought I heard a slight rattling sound over such roads which is making me think that maybe the upper ball joints may need to be replaced too. But, it could be my paranoia too.

    There was a vibration, though, and I am quite certain that it is a warped rotor. On long stops from highway speeds, which put a good bit of heat into the rotor, there was a noticeable vibration. The longer you stayed in the brake, the more it would vibrate. However, within about 3 seconds from leaving the stop the vibration would stop. This is an improvement as well. Low speed stops in town did not produce much, if any, vibration. And the reman caliper appears to be operating well with good pedal feel.

    So, eventhough I may still have a warped rotor to deal with, my current assessment of the vibration issue can be summarized like this:

    ...however, I want to see several days of shake free driving before I am thuroughly convinced that the issue is resolved. There's my paranoia again.
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  9. #82
    Member lowendboy's Avatar Array
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    sorry to hear you are having such a hard time with this.
    The best way to check the rotor is with a dial indicator. I have one with a fancy magnetic mounting apparatus. If you can borrow, or buy one relatively inexpensive, this will give you the exact amount of run out that your rotors have.

    http://www.harborfreight.com/media/c...image_4565.jpg

    I own 3 cars and do not believe in turning rotors for these 3 particular applications. However, a hard lesson learned years ago when I would get them turned, that process CAUSED run out, ie warped.
    This often happens from any of these things, dirt or a burr on mounting surface of rotor or lathe, the technician not taking care it chucking the rotor up true, or worse case a warped lathe.
    When you get a rotor turned you have a high rate of success with both sides of the rotor being parallel to each other, however equally important is that those surfaces are exactly perpendicular to the rotating axis.
    ...otherwise you have run out , ie a warped rotor freshly turned.

    Good luck and see if you can get a dial indicator. I use mine for many things. Can't rebuild a differential without one!
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  10. #83
    Hemi? Noooooooo! gangster wagon's Avatar


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    Good to hear that it's getting better!
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  11. #84
    Quando omni flunkus moritati. stingrayj's Avatar Array
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    Well, there is still a vibration. And it is fully in the brakes. Press the brake pedal and it shakes. Release and the vibration goes away. You can also feel it at 65-70mph without hitting the brakes. It seems like the rotors are warped, but not too bad...just enough to cause a vibration.

    There's also a bit of a light grinding/rubbing sound. I'm guessing that the pads which are "pre-scorched" are now baked/glazed? Will that improve as they wear, or are the pads shot too? Driving around with a seized up caliper is apparent hard on brakes.

    Aside from that, though, it is driving well.
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  12. #85
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    The car steers and corners well. It drives straight. And other than the warped rotor it is vibration free. However, there seems to be a general "roughness" to it. It just seems that the car should be smoother than it is. And occassionally over rough sections I can hear a faint knock. So, now I'm wondering if the upper ball joint is also worn.

    Since this is a pricey part, how can I "test" to see if the ball joint is worn?
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  13. #86
    Quando omni flunkus moritati. stingrayj's Avatar Array
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    I crawled under the car to take a few pictures tonight.

    Right front brake rotor...







    Drive shaft...(front of car)


    (Rear of car...)


    Support bearing (a few shot since it was hard to get)...









    And then there is this lovely mess...


    Passenger's side...


    Driver's side...


    From back of car...


    Another angle...
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  14. #87
    Shaolin Ch'uan Fa Fireman2118's Avatar



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    My WAG (wild ass guess...Lol) after looking at your pictures is this............

    Your drive-line and drive-line couplers look ok . Looks like outer coating peeling off, that's all.

    Your differential looks like it may have been overfilled when you last serviced it. The vent is on the top of the differential on the side that appears more "wet" with gear oil. Could it be a seal or some other kind of leak?.....Yeah, maybe, but I'm guessing that it's the vent. Oil will seep from the vent if overfilled.....Quite common. Mine looked just like that.

    That brake rotor is messed up! That's the "bad" or "stuck" caliper I'm guessing.

    That rotor looks like it's been "overheated" in areas and looks like "pad transfer" in other areas. You might try resurfacing it and get the caliper rebuilt or replaced.
    You might need to replace that rotor.



    Last edited by Fireman2118; 02-17-2011 at 08:17 PM.

    '05 R/T

    PPP stage 3 big valve heads - Howards cam 219/227 .600/.575 112 LSA (108 ICL) - PAC 1518 springs - forged pushrods - 6.1 lifters - 6.1 oil pump - 6.1 timing set - Modern Muscle stage 1+ ported 6.1 manifold
    & 85mm throttle body - 6.1 fuel injectors - 6.1 fuel rails - 25% UDP - Jet 180 tstat - LMI 4" true CAI - MSD "Blaster" coils - 8.2mm Taylor wires - JBA headers - JBA high flow mids - Corsa catback - Diablosport Intune
    Paramount series 55, stage 1 transmission, "Dominator" 3000 stall tc & stage II valve body - Tranzformer shift kit - B&M Hi-Tek transmission cooler - 226mm Getrag 3.91 LSD - BC racing coilovers - Eibach front & rear sways
    Prothane & Whiteline bushing kit - BWoody endlinks - Razors Edge strut bar - Wilwood big brake kit by TCE - W6A 6 piston front calipers on 14.25" 2 piece GT rotors - Dynapro 4 piston rear calipers on 13" 2 piece GT rotors
    Trufiber Challenger A58 carbon fiber hood - Vossen VVS-CV3 & Nitto 420s - 22" x 9" w/265/35/22 & 22" x 10.5" w/295/30/22 - tuning by Ditos motors ---- Hemi Registry #943


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  15. #88
    Quando omni flunkus moritati. stingrayj's Avatar Array
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    I was planning to have the differential flushed and filled during my inspection in April. After seeing the leak I was wondering if I should wait that long? Are you saying that this is "normal"?

    The right front caliper seized up completely which, I believe, is what caused the over heating issue. I am an "easy breaker" as much as possible. I prefer to slow down early for a stop light and time the green so that I don't really have to come to a complete stop. So, I'm pretty sure that the bad caliper is the culprit here. I just wasn't sure about the pads. Are they toast? Will they still be useable? I am getting a little bit of squealing out of the right front at lower speed stops.
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  16. #89
    Shaolin Ch'uan Fa Fireman2118's Avatar



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    Quote: Originally Posted by stingrayj View Post
    I was planning to have the differential flushed and filled during my inspection in April. After seeing the leak I was wondering if I should wait that long? Are you saying that this is "normal"?

    The right front caliper seized up completely which, I believe, is what caused the over heating issue. I am an "easy breaker" as much as possible. I prefer to slow down early for a stop light and time the green so that I don't really have to come to a complete stop. So, I'm pretty sure that the bad caliper is the culprit here. I just wasn't sure about the pads. Are they toast? Will they still be useable? I am getting a little bit of squealing out of the right front at lower speed stops.

    As far as the pads go..........Definately replace that set (rt side). Maybe the rotor too.

    The oil on the differential may very well be coming from the vent which is right above the rt. axle (see pic) I'm thinking it is
    If it is, there's nothing to worry about. It just means that the gear oil level is a little high.






    Last edited by Fireman2118; 02-17-2011 at 08:32 PM.

    '05 R/T

    PPP stage 3 big valve heads - Howards cam 219/227 .600/.575 112 LSA (108 ICL) - PAC 1518 springs - forged pushrods - 6.1 lifters - 6.1 oil pump - 6.1 timing set - Modern Muscle stage 1+ ported 6.1 manifold
    & 85mm throttle body - 6.1 fuel injectors - 6.1 fuel rails - 25% UDP - Jet 180 tstat - LMI 4" true CAI - MSD "Blaster" coils - 8.2mm Taylor wires - JBA headers - JBA high flow mids - Corsa catback - Diablosport Intune
    Paramount series 55, stage 1 transmission, "Dominator" 3000 stall tc & stage II valve body - Tranzformer shift kit - B&M Hi-Tek transmission cooler - 226mm Getrag 3.91 LSD - BC racing coilovers - Eibach front & rear sways
    Prothane & Whiteline bushing kit - BWoody endlinks - Razors Edge strut bar - Wilwood big brake kit by TCE - W6A 6 piston front calipers on 14.25" 2 piece GT rotors - Dynapro 4 piston rear calipers on 13" 2 piece GT rotors
    Trufiber Challenger A58 carbon fiber hood - Vossen VVS-CV3 & Nitto 420s - 22" x 9" w/265/35/22 & 22" x 10.5" w/295/30/22 - tuning by Ditos motors ---- Hemi Registry #943


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  17. #90
    Quando omni flunkus moritati. stingrayj's Avatar Array
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    Looking back at my pics, it does look like the oil is originating from the vent area. I was just concerned that it may be leaking to the point of having nothing left in it.

    Dropping more money into the "money pit on wheels" is really getting old. As much as I hate the idea of replacing the less than a month old brakes, it looks like I don't really have a choice.
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