x-post: drag racing tips?

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  1. #1
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    Questionx-post: drag racing tips?

    (didn't notice this forum before, and my question in 'performance' has gone unanswered thus far...)

    local speedway has a test & tune night this week (1/4 mile)...

    new owner here of an '07 SRT8, and thinking about going (haven't staged at a 'christmas tree' for almost 20 years, since my '65 Mustang).

    won't have $$ for a while for any upgrades, so looking at this also as a baseline test (stock) compared to future plans for CAI, diablo, etc.

    one question: ESP/TCS off completely? or "half" off? or leave it all on so no spinning off the line? depending on how many passes i get, maybe i'll try all three for comparison, but just wondering what the experienced wisdom here in this community recommends.

    thanks in advance.
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  3. #2
    Shaolin Ch'uan Fa Fireman2118's Avatar



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    All Magnums came from the factory with "open" differentials, meaning they only drive 1 rear wheel most of the time. Occasionally, you can get traction with both wheels but that's when one flat ground and when the tires have equal grip. Because of this limitation, the ESP/BAS, traction control is intended to act as an electronic limited slip. The system also incorporates torque management so it's hard to say how performance will be affected.

    If you leave the system on and hook up, there shouldn't be much, if any affect. Best to play around with it and see how it works on the track you're at.

    You have a 0-60 timer. Find some flat, open road and play around with launches in all 3 modes.


    Be aware that the weak link in these cars ('05-'08) are the axles. If you hook up good, you have a 50/50 change of snapping one of the axle CV joints.......MANY DO!

    There are upgraded axles or you can do what I've done and many others and install a Getrag limited slip differential from a newer Challenger. These differentials have upgraded axles along with 3.06, 3.73 or 3.91 gearing.



    Last edited by Fireman2118; 09-22-2014 at 10:06 PM.

    '05 R/T

    PPP stage 3 big valve heads - Howards cam 219/227 .600/.575 112 LSA (108 ICL) - PAC 1518 springs - forged pushrods - 6.1 lifters - 6.1 oil pump - 6.1 timing set - Modern Muscle stage 1+ ported 6.1 manifold
    & 85mm throttle body - 6.1 fuel injectors - 6.1 fuel rails - 25% UDP - Jet 180 tstat - LMI 4" true CAI - MSD "Blaster" coils - 8.2mm Taylor wires - JBA headers - JBA high flow mids - Corsa catback - Diablosport Intune
    Paramount series 55, stage 1 transmission, "Dominator" 3000 stall tc & stage II valve body - Tranzformer shift kit - B&M Hi-Tek transmission cooler - 226mm Getrag 3.91 LSD - BC racing coilovers - Eibach front & rear sways
    Prothane & Whiteline bushing kit - BWoody endlinks - Razors Edge strut bar - Wilwood big brake kit by TCE - W6A 6 piston front calipers on 14.25" 2 piece GT rotors - Dynapro 4 piston rear calipers on 13" 2 piece GT rotors
    Trufiber Challenger A58 carbon fiber hood - Vossen VVS-CV3 & Nitto 420s - 22" x 9" w/265/35/22 & 22" x 10.5" w/295/30/22 - tuning by Ditos motors ---- Hemi Registry #943


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    thanks for the reply...

    Quote: Originally Posted by Fireman2118 View Post
    ESP/BAS, traction control is intended to act as an electronic limited slip. The system also incorporates torque management so it's hard to say how performance will be affected.
    thought i read in the owner's manual though that even with the ESP system totally off (5 second push), TCS will still provide limited-slip-like influence?

    You have a 0-60 timer. Find some flat, open road and play around with launches in all 3 modes.
    ?? do tell! i didn't see that mentioned in the manual anywhere.

    Be aware that the weak link in these cars ('05-'08) are the axles. If you hook up good, you have a 50/50 change of snapping one of the axle CV joints.......MANY DO!
    hmmmmm... now you've got me worried. dang, i don't really like those odds.
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    Shaolin Ch'uan Fa Fireman2118's Avatar



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    The yaw control of the system remains active in full off mode.




    '05 R/T

    PPP stage 3 big valve heads - Howards cam 219/227 .600/.575 112 LSA (108 ICL) - PAC 1518 springs - forged pushrods - 6.1 lifters - 6.1 oil pump - 6.1 timing set - Modern Muscle stage 1+ ported 6.1 manifold
    & 85mm throttle body - 6.1 fuel injectors - 6.1 fuel rails - 25% UDP - Jet 180 tstat - LMI 4" true CAI - MSD "Blaster" coils - 8.2mm Taylor wires - JBA headers - JBA high flow mids - Corsa catback - Diablosport Intune
    Paramount series 55, stage 1 transmission, "Dominator" 3000 stall tc & stage II valve body - Tranzformer shift kit - B&M Hi-Tek transmission cooler - 226mm Getrag 3.91 LSD - BC racing coilovers - Eibach front & rear sways
    Prothane & Whiteline bushing kit - BWoody endlinks - Razors Edge strut bar - Wilwood big brake kit by TCE - W6A 6 piston front calipers on 14.25" 2 piece GT rotors - Dynapro 4 piston rear calipers on 13" 2 piece GT rotors
    Trufiber Challenger A58 carbon fiber hood - Vossen VVS-CV3 & Nitto 420s - 22" x 9" w/265/35/22 & 22" x 10.5" w/295/30/22 - tuning by Ditos motors ---- Hemi Registry #943


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  7. #5
    Senior Member Robgetsitsold's Avatar Array
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    When I went to the track I didn't notice much of a difference with or without esp on or off, so I just left it on. I ran a 14.2 on street tires, I think I should be a lot closer to 13.5s now with all the extras since. I hope to get back out to the track when it gets cooler out here, ncepts couple of months.
    Move your seat a little more forward, when you get staged, firmly press the brakes, and raise your RPMS to approx 1500 Mark before the tires break loose. When it gets to the last or second to last yellow floor it and let go the brake at the same time, you will have to see how your car reacts, drive by wire has some lag from when u hit the gas to when it moves! Hope this helps.
    2005 RT
    Flowmaster American Thunder Cat back, K&N CAI, DIABLO CATCH CAN,
    JET 180 stat, Challenger 6spd motor mounts, Gates Racing Hoses, Taylor shorty wire conversion, Diablosport Trinity, CMR DIABLOTOONA tune, EGR DELETE, TRANZFORMER,
    Drake strut Brace, Painted Calipers with Dodge decals, Red LED Glow lights, Danko 1.25" shaved front spoiler, X Type eyelids, Trufiber Ram Air hood, De-moulded, Hurst shifter handle. Nitto NT420s 255/55/18, Eibach Pro-Kit finally lowered!


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  8. #6
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    so i had a little "incident" on my mountain bike this afternoon, so no drag racing for me this evening... hoping to get out next Wednesday though for at least some baseline runs.

    thanks for the heads-up about the axles, fireman -- i'm not looking for any quarter-mile records or hard-launches, just want to have some fun in this car after driving a built/lifted rock-crawling jeep for 13 years. hopefully the stock components of an SRT8 can deal with a bit of "fun" off-the-line.

    also, thanks for the clue about the 0-60 timer -- a bit of Googling led me to some info which was super cool (and surprising); the hidden EVIC stuff will be useful, for sure!

    again, looking forward to both learning from and contributing to these forums.

    cheers.
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  9. #7
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    well i got to go to the last "test and tune" night of the year... had a good time!

    my reaction time was horrific (i'd like to blame some of this on the drive-by-wire) and the wheelspin off the line each time didn't help matters, but ran a 14.4 (track at 5,800').

    my goal was to just get out and get a baseline before adding a CAI and diablo tune (hopefully in the spring). last time i staged at a dragstrip was 28 years ago in my '65 mustang for the "high school drags". (wagon is faster).

    as an aside, i saw my neighbor there in his [email protected] grand cherokee SRT8 run 10.8! needless to say, not stock by a long shot. i always wondered how fast that thing was... i only half-jokingly blame him for my getting the SRT8 magnum because i'd hear that thing start up and drive away each morning w/ its awesome growl!

    i'll be back next season.

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