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So im about to build my new set up. Re 15xxx already arrived. Now i hear i should do the big 3 upgrade. If anybody knows exactly how much wiring i need please let me know, and now onto the biggest question. New amp... Suggestions

ifonics Brutus BRZ2400.1D D-Class Mono Block is my first choice. This isnt too much to push into the single 15 is it? Thanks for your input guys.
 

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Who Dat !!!
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Whats up Homie? I Pmed you on the Big 3. Bout the Amp what ohm's do you plan on wiring the sub up for?
 

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Who Dat !!!
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Yeah that Amp should be cool just watch how you set your gains!! That sub is rated 2000 rms 4000 max, that Amp puts out 1700 @ 2ohms an 2400 @ 1ohm.
 

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I think that amp should be fine, just set your gains properly. That amp rating is at 14.4, which I rarely think most cars run at without upgraded alternators.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Whats up Homie? I Pmed you on the Big 3. Bout the Amp what ohm's do you plan on wiring the sub up for?
I'm actually not too sure. Wiring to a certain ohm is all new to me. I've always just positive to positive negative to negative lol, so some info on this would be great. It has a diagram in the booklet ( parallel wiring, the dual 2 ohm woofer will generate a 1 ohm load if the coils are wired in parallel or 4 ohm load in series. Im only installing one, so i assume parallel? baha total noob today.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hurry up and install ur RE 15XXX, I wanna hear how it sounds. I'm in the debate if in going XXX or DC Audio.
working on a box today, and then ordering my amp probably tonight. Either the brutus 2100 or the brutus 2400 whatever people think would work best.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
ok last question..... Hifonics brutus 2100, or 2400 at 1ohm, or 2ohm..... baha
 

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Items that you will need:

5' of 1/0ga power
5' of 1/0ga ground
20' remote
10' 10ga speaker wire

Since this is a single amp installation, you don't need a distribution block, but I would highly recommend that you get on anyway. Hooking up another battery, amp, or cap will be all the easier. Consider upgrading your alternator and changing out the positive wire with the same size cable you are using for your amps. Upgrade your battery and run another in parallel for added amperage. The rule of thumb is to keep your cables as short and straight as possible. With those kind of loads, you will want to keep your cables (and speaker wires) separated as much as possible, because your wires will get hot. Split your speaker wires down the middle. One thing I would do while you are building the speaker box is to run bus bars inside your box. Use separate heavy duty bars for each speaker. Use a bolt and washer setup that will allow you to use ring terminals on your speaker cable to tighten them down. This setup will keep you from worrying about the speaker wires on the insides of the box. At the speaker, run short speaker wires to the bus bar. Using standard terminals may allow your wires to slip out. This also improves current. Don't forget to use polyfil, speaker gaskets, and silicone to seal your box appropriately. Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Items that you will need:

5' of 1/0ga power
5' of 1/0ga ground
20' remote
10' 10ga speaker wire

Since this is a single amp installation, you don't need a distribution block, but I would highly recommend that you get on anyway. Hooking up another battery, amp, or cap will be all the easier. Consider upgrading your alternator and changing out the positive wire with the same size cable you are using for your amps. Upgrade your battery and run another in parallel for added amperage. The rule of thumb is to keep your cables as short and straight as possible. With those kind of loads, you will want to keep your cables (and speaker wires) separated as much as possible, because your wires will get hot. Split your speaker wires down the middle. One thing I would do while you are building the speaker box is to run bus bars inside your box. Use separate heavy duty bars for each speaker. Use a bolt and washer setup that will allow you to use ring terminals on your speaker cable to tighten them down. This setup will keep you from worrying about the speaker wires on the insides of the box. At the speaker, run short speaker wires to the bus bar. Using standard terminals may allow your wires to slip out. This also improves current. Don't forget to use polyfil, speaker gaskets, and silicone to seal your box appropriately. Hope this helps.
thanks man. I ordered a 0 guage amp set, lots of good reviews, and ya battery and alt upgrades will come. I ordered the Brutus 2100, and im wiring it to 1 ohm
 

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upgrading the short wires in the rear of the car is pointless unless you upgrade the wire from the alternator to the battery. the distance is whats going to build heat. if you add another battery, wire up an isolator so you dont shorten the life of your batteries.
 

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From Silver 2 Sexy Bullet
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thanks man. I ordered a 0 guage amp set, lots of good reviews, and ya battery and alt upgrades will come. I ordered the Brutus 2100, and im wiring it to 1 ohm
That means you will draw more current from your amp running at 1 ohm. Even 1/0ga cable can get hot over time with extreme power. One good thing to consider is doubling up on your cable to and from the battery. With a multi 1/0ga non-fused distribution block for your power and ground, you can use that as a central distribution point for your batteries, caps, and amp. You will be able to run everything from your blocks. Using the large battery terminals just make it harder to tighten your connector or install it at the right angle you need. I run multiple amps so I have a x5 1/0ga distribution block for my battery, two capcells, and a fused multi-amp distribution block. I have another non-fused block for my 1/0ga grounds. I am running three separate amps with no distribution issues.

upgrading the short wires in the rear of the car is pointless unless you upgrade the wire from the alternator to the battery. the distance is whats going to build heat. if you add another battery, wire up an isolator so you dont shorten the life of your batteries.
Because the alternator/starter cable is a heavier duty cable, so you should be fine if you upgrade the alternator. The copper strands are much larger than what you see on an amp installation cable. If I replace that, I would run a larger insulated cable that has equal or better strand sizes. Keep in mind that your power is coming from your battery source(s). The alternator only charges the battery. I found that an isolator is good for a multiple battery setup. Since an isolator acts as a diode, the power from your main battery. The downside to this, is that your music will die if your other batteries bleed out UNLESS you have an override option on your isolator which will then suck the juice out of the other battery anyway. Having and isolator will allow you to get around, which is good, but you will not have the benefit of added current when you need it unless you add more batteries to your setup. I think the best way around this situation it to installed a capcell with an LED display so you can see how much power you are getting from your batteries at all times.
 

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If you draw too much current from the alternator you risk damage and failure. All I'm saying is if your going to upgrade the writing around the battery you should upgrade the ability of the car to recharge it as well. You should also consider a high output alternator
 

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Discussion Starter #15
i wish i had local friends with deep car audio knowledge lol. But yea i bought the brutus 2100 with a 0 guage wiring kit. I am still looking to the do the Big 3, and will eventually get around to it. Still have some building and waiting to do. I'll post photos when everythings done, thanks for all the info guys.
 

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If you draw too much current from the alternator you risk damage and failure. All I'm saying is if your going to upgrade the writing around the battery you should upgrade the ability of the car to recharge it as well. You should also consider a high output alternator
This is true, but doubling up on batteries will compensate for this. The nominal charging voltage for the alternator is between 13.5VDC to 15VDC. The current cable will suffice, but it doesn't hurt to upgrade the cable (ensure you have good crimps on them). This is why I would personally, run a parrallel cable so you have two cables instead of one. With my current setup, I am running three amps. Two of my amps drive my DVC subs. Each coil on the subs has a dedicated channel. Because I usually get some good road time in, I never run 1ohm loads because my amps will go into protect mode within an hour or driving. To prevent this, I use high power amps that I do not bridge. Channel 1 is coil 1, and channel 2 is coil 2. My amps are running at a 4ohm load and I have never had any of my amps shutdown, blow, or go into protect mode. Each sub amp is rated at 1250W and drive one 1000W sub. They never run hot (even without ventilation). My cables don't get hot either since I don't bridge my amps. I am running the stock alternators also, with no light flicker.

I know everyone has their own scenario, so I am not knocking yours at all. You did what works for you. I have done the installations for both my trucks and my Magnum and they have never given me any problems. I just finished up an 8-speaker setup with a custom sub box on my sportbike running 2400W with no issues. And, that thing is loud. I guess you can say I have been doing this for a long time. LOL.

Sportbike Speakerbox - YouTube
 

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Running a second wire is a great option especially at the price of 0 gauge wire. I've toasted a stock alternator on as little as 1700w using 2 batteries. it's definitely takes much more than an amp and speakers to do your sounds system right
 
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