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Hello, I'm T, just got a 05 magnum rt w 48k miles. The dealer replaced the rack and pin, ball joints, and serpentine belt... when I pulled off the check engine light came on, turned around, it was a o2 sensor.. I have some questions already. Hopefully you guys and gals can help.
I'm a gm man, dodge is new to me ( besides a 2006 Chrysler pacifica lease I got in 2005)

So question 1, why the heck does this engine take 16 spark plugs my goodness!!! Lol. I had a 2004 gp Gtp comp g before this car ( giving the Gtp up so I can get the rt) the Gtp takes 91-93 gas. Does this car take just 89, or is it ok to use 91 in it?

It does this thing where, it bings, then all the gauges go crazy, and then the gauges drop... like the car has been cut off??? Idk what this is. It's done it 2x so far. If I'm driving the car, it'll keep running, just the gauges are dead like I cut the car off, then the esp light comes on. If the car is running idle, and the gauges go nuts, the rpm gauge revs up and down, then boom, car cuts off... I don't get it, but like I. Said, its only done that 2x

Also, the steering is pretty stiff. Is this normal??? I know its a heavy car, but the wheel is pretty stiff when trying to turn it.

Is it hard to do a tune up on 16 plugs? Are they all located on the top of the 5.7?? I can't tell.

Lastly , I never changed brakes on a car w double pistons, is it any different from the norm? Just use the c clamp, and the old pad to reset the piston, or is there more to it w this car.

I appreciate any feedback from anyone, thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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Welcome T from Nor Cal Travis AFB. Man there sure are a lot of T's on the site. As far as the spark plugs i havent changed mine yet so im not sure but somebody will chime in soon. The steering is relatively stiff compared to what u are used to but it'll feel better as u drive it more
 

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CMOM FOR DEC 08
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javascript:void(0); T from a FOUR MAGNUM family in North Carolina.

Don't know about all the problems you are experiencing with the gauges etc.
I run 89 Octane in both of our R/Ts and SXT and only run 93 in our SRT.

What I would try is pulling fuse # 11 in the front fuse box and leave it out for a couple minutes and then plug it back in and let it reset EVERYTHING and see IF this might help.

My steering seems fine in ALL of mine; turns very easy. Might check power steering fluid. And make sure the surpentine belt in on correctly. (Make sure the tire pressure isn't low ~ this would make it turn hard)

Hear the plugs are EASY to change although haven't done any of mine yet.

Yup, should be NO difference in changing the brakes.

ONE thing I would do IF I were you IS get rid of the "rats nest" spark plug wire and get the Taylor Shorty wires. Seems to make the car run much smoother and looks so much cleaner in the engine bay.

Hope some of this information is helpful to you.

Jim

 

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Hello, I'm T, just got a 05 magnum rt w 48k miles. The dealer replaced the rack and pin, ball joints, and serpentine belt... when I pulled off the check engine light came on, turned around, it was a o2 sensor.. I have some questions already. Hopefully you guys and gals can help.
I'm a gm man, dodge is new to me ( besides a 2006 Chrysler pacifica lease I got in 2005) I was the same way until July when I bought my 07' SXT. Raised GM under a GM Retiree's roof etc..

So question 1, why the heck does this engine take 16 spark plugs my goodness!!! Lol. I had a 2004 gp Gtp comp g before this car ( giving the Gtp up so I can get the rt) the Gtp takes 91-93 gas. Does this car take just 89, or is it ok to use 91 in it?
The Hemispherical cylinder heads use dual plugs, maximizing flame propagation with least amount of emissions. It's always ok to use a higher octane, although you may not notice any difference, MOF you might notice decrease; e.g. build an 8:1 compression engine, which would take 87oct. after tuning, if you fill it up with 91oct you may end up running slower, due to higher octane burning slower.

It does this thing where, it bings, then all the gauges go crazy, and then the gauges drop... like the car has been cut off??? Idk what this is. It's done it 2x so far. If I'm driving the car, it'll keep running, just the gauges are dead like I cut the car off, then the esp light comes on. If the car is running idle, and the gauges go nuts, the rpm gauge revs up and down, then boom, car cuts off... I don't get it, but like I. Said, its only done that 2x
This is a new one for me. I am sure 05s had some weird issues, as any new year model will. I believe, Bill correct me, there was an issue with wiring harness near the steering wheel. Not sure if this is one of the symptoms or not.

Also, the steering is pretty stiff. Is this normal??? I know its a heavy car, but the wheel is pretty stiff when trying to turn it.
I'm going to say yes, I've noticed the steering is a bit tighter than many rides at slow parking lot speed.

Is it hard to do a tune up on 16 plugs? Are they all located on the top of the 5.7?? I can't tell.
Plenty of write-ups in the knowledge base. To include spark plugs, engine cover painting etc. Definitely check it out.

Lastly , I never changed brakes on a car w double pistons, is it any different from the norm? Just use the c clamp, and the old pad to reset the piston, or is there more to it w this car.
Same procedure.
I appreciate any feedback from anyone, thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Welcome to CM. No we'll be expecting some pics or you'll get this, :worthless:


Charlie-
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I appreciate the replies. The gauges thing is weird. The car is covered, so I'm not to concerned w it, but its still a weird issue. As far as the tune up yes.... I know the car only has 48k miles, but its a habit to change plugs and wires shortly after I get a used car.

So far everything has been good. I put 91 in the car earlier ( out of habit) and I'm like whoops, car is rated for 89 lol, but its been running fine w it in there.

About the steering, I thought maybe it was because of the new rack and pin, but at the same time, I just thought, maybe its just a heavy car, and I'm used to a really smooth wheel ( even on my 91 Chevy g20 custom conversion, the wheel turns extremely smooth) its not a issue, just wondering

Does anyone know if these cars are known for having good transmissions, or are they popular for being problematic?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Cat3- appreciate the feedback and same here, my dad, 40 years parma plant.
 

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Hello and welcome to our world. I have an 06 R/T and the plugs were very easy to change, difference between ours is that you have plug wires and the 06's and up do not. I purchased my plugs from Rock Auto, I believe that they are the cheapest around. Use the Champion coppers, that's OEM. Don't know much else.lol Someone will be by to help soon.
 

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MR 3 FIFTEEN
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Welcome from Illinois. I would imagine that the steering would be quite stiff if you've had the ball joints replaced. I replaced JUST the driver's side and I noticed a HUGE difference in the stiffness of the front end. The fact that it's a RWD vehicle may also play a factor, I've read that here before.
 

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steering is very tight in the mags. its normal
as things wear in, it will soften some, not much
the gauges? can be a pcm prob
and get your alternator tested, can cause similar issues
AND the engine bay wiring harness
my 92 f150 had same issue- alternator
my 00 ford windstar same issue- engine bay harness
both easy fixes
as for the plugs, is simple
there is writeups all over the site, easy to find
and as for brakes...the same way, pads are just bigger
ill leave it with that, congrats on the purchase though man
hope it gets fixed
 

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first off, welcome to cm and congrats on getting the best car youve ever owned!!!


changing the pads is the same, only difference i would suggest is making sure that you compress both of the pistons equally, at the same time. Pushing only one in at a time could actually hyper-extend the other one. So, to do that, bridge the two pistons with something, like the old pad, or use two clamps in sequence with each other.

as far as the plugs, I will re-itterate the need to use factory plugs. They are the most efficient, and the most bang for you buck. Wires.....not neccesary to replace as a maintenance item imo, but if you want to be sure, and to clean up the bay, get the shorty wires. They plugs are a piece of cake.

As for the gauges going crazy, sounds like she is attempting to go into limp mode. Most of the time when this happens, the car will either die, or just momentarily cut-out and shudder, making you THINK she is going to die. This can be caused by a lot of issues. Some easy ones to check on your own would be air flow (make sure nothing is blocking the airflow through the intake, intake properly attached, throttle body clear etc) or the IAT sensor (intake air temp sensor, plugged into the side of the intake right in front of the throttle body) If the IAT comes unplugged, or isn't plugged in securely, which ive seen happen plenty, then you can have the same issues.

Could be lots of things, but these are all good places to start!!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for all your replies. I'm glad I found this site, you guys are extremely helpful. Appreciate that.
This is a great running car, and smooth as silk. I haven't had a rwd v8 since my 84 caprice, I HATE fwd, so its nice to have a rwd car again finally. Well besides that van, but it doesn't count lol.
My only problem with this car, its too smooth, and too quiet!!! My first trip on the freeway, I was doing 90 thinking I was doing 70, I was like geeze!!!!! I was thinking people were driving slow, when it was really me flying Haha. I was like ok, no driving off the "feeling" of how fast your going, I better just check the speedo occasionally lol.

Thanks guys.
 

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hey,hey, welcome from indiana. on that break issue, iv asked my mechanic about double pistons n he said that they do hav to have a special tool n not to use a c-clamp, or i could blow out the line, so i would ask somone who has already done double pistons themselves, iv once done a set on a car n never thought about it, i used a lil peice of stock to bridge across them n slowly compressed them, it wasnt a preformance car either, so just double check, not saying were wrong, maby u can get buy, but its nice to b positive.
 

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i appreciate that. the guy said thats all i have to do, but im so clueless about dodge, im just trying to be careful with everything because i know nothing about this car, or dodge as a whole.
 

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Welcome from Northern VA/DC metro area. Seems like most of ur questions been answered..lol. One thing though, i believe the spark plugs dont need to be changed until like 100,000 miles. I think it says it in the owners manual. Unless u know for sure one of ur plugs bad or having issues. Like the other member said, only use factory OEM plugs. They are the most efficient and no after market one is going to have more platinum or irridium thn the OEM ones. OEM ones are very well made n thats why they never need to be changed for such a long time. They are that good ;-) if im wrong, someone correct me :)P
 

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Welcome from the MotorCity, Michigan!!

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Glenn
 

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Appreciate the reply. It's a habit to buy a used car and change the plugs. I'll probably wait on that then. But I was going to get a flush and refill of the trans fluid, and put tires on it. I'll worry about the rest later.

Thanks, you guys are extra helpful. I appreciate everything.
 

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Welcome to the web site Bigmane,like you I'm new here also.This is an awesome place, full of info on Magnum's. I just got all the parts to do my brakes & tierods today,probably tackle them tomorrow,it's supposed to be warmer.Be sure to check out the forum pages.Congrats on the new ride.
 
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