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Yes, another HID thread, I apologize but I can't figure this out.

I'm doing a retrofit with the morimoto mini H1 projectors and everything is coming along fine... Until I went to test out my HID's from DDM to make sure they work.

Can anyone tell me if this looks correct?


This is how I had it hooked up to my car, I believe I had the polarity reversed but when I reverse the polarity should I do it from the OEM harness plugging into the error eliminator or reverse the plug where the error eliminator and ballast connect?

I was able to get the lights to flicker on then off and as I shut the lights off then back on they seemed to stay on longer each time.

They got to the point where they were warming up and getting brighter and then all the sudden I heard an explosion. The BOW (error eliminator) had exploded, which tells me something was hooked up wrong...



Last question is do I need to hook up the spade connectors and other plug to anything? That would require some sort of wire modding as there is nothing to connect them to. I've been doing lots of research and I can't seem to find anything as to if I need to use them or not, is it just an alternative ballast connection if your car comes stock with H1 bulbs?

Thank you, Garrett
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Morning bump, no one has any input? At least which location to reverse polarity from? I don't want anything else exploding.
 

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That sux. Sorry about your troubles. Mine that I have look like these and never had a problem.
I recently bought a few DDM kits for friends and they suck! LifeTime warranties are great, but not if your exchanging parts out for the life of them
As far as the polarity, everything goes into place except the factory plug, put THAT backwards only. I just looked at mine to double check and I have my error elim plugged into the ballast.

Looking back at your picture, what kit is that? "slim ballast"? I never seen that ballast from them before. I bought full size ballasts and have the full size from a different seller in my car
 

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Shaolin Ch'uan Fa
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I don't know if this will help. You can see in my set-up that the anti flicker harness connect to in the input side of the ballast. The polarity switch occurs where the OEM harness connects the the anti flicker harness. (See black to red, red to black connection circled)

 

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The other thing shag, is the extra wires I think are for a relay kit, so if they're not a 55w kit, you don't need them. Pull em out or cut that grommet(unless you can use the rubber to mount to your retro fit housing)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thank you for your help guys, I must've had the polarity wrong at the error eliminator then? That is a 55w kit from them I believe it's the slim ballasts but it didn't really state anything otherwise. Since it is the 55W kit are you saying I'll have to connect those spade connectors to something? Thanks again.
 

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Since it's a 55w kit, you should be using a relay kit directly of the battery. That might've been the problem what fried them. Thats just a guess though. Use a relay harness and no error eliminators, and just reverse the stock plug
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Since it's a 55w kit, you should be using a relay kit directly of the battery. That might've been the problem what fried them. Thats just a guess though. Use a relay harness and no error eliminators, and just reverse the stock plug
"Warning: Some vehicles may have reverse polarity. Reverse polarity can cause a BOW to explode. We recommend wearing safety glasses and closing your hood before testing the BOW on your vehicle."
This is from DDM under the details of the error eliminator.

I just am not sure how the extra 9006 plug and spade connectors would be for a relay especially because they wouldn't be hooked up to anything else on the HID kit? In the tutorial for the H1 bulbs off the DDM website it shows that the spade connectors are plugged into the headlight housing (in which I assumed was the stock way of hooking up and H1 bulb on cars that come with them factory) and in that case I could see the 9006 plug going into the ballast or a separate plug? lol I'm so confused I don't want to blow anything else up.

I can't attach the file but if you go here and click on the H1 install guide you will be able to see what I am talking about.

https://www.ddmtuning.com/support/index.php?_m=downloads&_a=view&parentcategoryid=1&pcid=0&nav=0
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I see that Ddm also sells a relay harness but it also states that most american cars can be run without it at either 35W or 55W. I have one more error eliminator to play with and blow up if need be because I had to order another pair from them. I think I was reversing the polarity from the wrong place, if I don't have any luck I'll look into ordering a relay harness. Please let me know if you have any other insight though anyone!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Lol I just went outside and hooked up everything and reversed the polarity at the Oem connection and they worked flawlessly... The only thing was just a little bit of smoke coming from the bulb while it was in the projector housing but I'm assuming that's because everything is brand new...
 

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I had DDM's on my Avalanche for over a year and half with no problems. Hoping to put them on the Magnum to. Is 55w the stock wattage? And do we need the error eliminators or the relays? I've read something different in almost every thread. My Avy didn't need either.
 

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It looks like you have the BOW on the wrong side of the ballast.... it should go before the ballast not after, it exploded because the ballast put too much voltage into it....It should looks like Firemans' setup....
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Not sure on the stock wattage, but from what I understand you do need the error eliminator and it's pretty rare that you don't. Or some sort of anti flicker harness as these other guys have pictured.. Not sure the difference if any. I'm sure one of them will chime in soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Not sure on the stock wattage, but from what I understand you do need the error eliminator and it's pretty rare that you don't. Or some sort of anti flicker harness as these other guys have pictured.. Not sure the difference if any. I'm sure one of them will chime in soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
It looks like you have the BOW on the wrong side of the ballast.... it should go before the ballast not after, it exploded because the ballast put too much voltage into it....It should looks like Firemans' setup....
It is before the ballast I have the BOW plugged into the stock harness and then it runs to the ballast.
 

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35w = error eliminator
55w = relay harness
:eek:fftopic: kid was just telling me about a 100w kit off road truck that if you tried to turn them on driving on regular roads, it would bounce off the street signs and blind you! :cool30:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
35w = error eliminator
55w = relay harness
:eek:fftopic: kid was just telling me about a 100w kit off road truck that if you tried to turn them on driving on regular roads, it would bounce off the street signs and blind you! :cool30:
Dang! Never even knew that was possible to have a 100w kit!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
This is my eBay halogen projectors compared to ONE of the morimoto mini H1 projectors. I'm getting excited. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1339303877.431171.jpg ImageUploadedByTapatalk1339303889.803160.jpg
 
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