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Go Dupont Racing!
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited by Moderator)
These are instructions that I have put together from my expierience of installing the factory accessory illuminated door sill guards. I used part# 82208040AB. As you can see it is for a Magnum but the lame illustrated only instructions are titled Chrysler 300/Dodge Magnum Illuminated Door Scuff Plates.

First thing I found out after opening the box, there was no primer in the box, the instructions clearly show there is supposed to be. Also there is no double stick tape installed on the scuff plates as the instructions called for.

No problem though, I have read in other threads that the tape is lame and does not hold. Suggestions were hot glue, 3m tape, etc, more on that later.

First step is disconnect the negative battery cable. It probably isn't necessary but I do it anyways, wouldn't want a stupid mistake to cause big problem if you know what I mean. Didn't take pictures of removing battery cable, if you need instructions on this then do not attempt this install. Make sure when you are done to perform battery reconnect procedure. You can find this in the knowlege base.

Second step is to remove the moldings for access to install the wiring. Start on the right side and remove the A pillar trim piece first. This is the A pillar trim



The trim is a bitch to get off. There are two clips, an upper one and a lower one. The upper one is the bitch. Put your fingers under the trim piece at the windshield and get them under the trim piece, pull towards the back of the car at the upper clip. I found that it came a little at first and then was real hard. I tried prying with screwdriver (be careful not to damage trim edges, etc.) and prybar, finally it came with a loud pop. This pic is the A piller trim piece removed. At the bottom (left side of pic) you see a tab sticking out. this connects to a slot in the upper dash, you have to wiggle the trim piece and pull to get it out of this slot, comes out pretty easy once the upper clip is removed



This is what it looks like with the A pillar trim removed. I have circled where the two clips go into from the trim piece



Here is a pic of the upper clip, it has a head on it and the plastic retainer in the A pillar holds on real tight to this. (New edit) I have heard you can get a screwdriver into the female piece that the clip(pin) goes into in the A pillar and pry it open a little, I would be very careful!



Now remove the middle trim piece from the A pillar. It has two clips similar to the lower clip on the upper A piller trim. Just pull straight back towards the rear of the car and this piece pops off



Now remove the lower scuff panel. Start at the back of the panel nearest the rear of the car. Pull straight up working your way towards the front of the car, it has the same clips as the middle panel. When you get to the pillar, just wiggle it and pull and it will come off. It has a clip in the upper part of the panel near the mid trim piece bottom



Next we remove the glove box. There is a little rope thingy that dampens the opening of the glove box door. This has to be removed. It is a bitch. I had to pry open the clip that holds the loop on

Here is a pic of the loop and clip



Next you have to push in the glove box door open stops. They are on the sides of the glove box, push them from the outside of the glove box towards the inside of the glove box, you can then grab them from the inside and pull them in enought so the door will open fully. Then just lift the door from the hinge.

This pic shows the glove box door stops that need to be pushed in towards the inside of the glove box.



And this is the glove box removed



Now we drill a hole in the lower scuff panel to let the wires from the plate to go through. The instructions call for 16 1/8" but I added an 1/8" to this. This allows the wires to go through the plate without taking a real hard 90 degree turn through the plate that might cause the wiring to be damaged. Actually you can do this step later if you want, when you put the scuff plates on the door sills.



Now we run the wiring. First run the wiring that will splice into the A pillar connector. You can put your left hand up from the bottom and your right hand down from the top the grab the wire assembly. These are the two wires that are tapped together with a cloth type electrical tape. I think the tape used is better for protecting against chaffing.
Start from the bottom



and grab them from the top



Next disconnect the white electrical connector. There is a push tab on the body side of the connection, just push the tab and then pull the connector apart, it comes apart fairly easy. Then pull the wiring harness free from the holder half way up the pillar. This pic does not clearly show the harness holder half way up the pillar but you'll see what I mean. this pic is after I soldered the wiring, but it does show the connector disconnected. You can also see the push tab you need to push to disconnect the connector. It is in the middle of the connector



Next carefully strip the Yellow/White wire which is in position 2 on the connector and the Black/Light Green wire in position 4. I stripped them a few inches from the connector. I know that I am connecting the wires to the up side of the connector and downside connection would be much cleaner, but the down side of the connector does not come out very far for access to stip and solder the wiring. There is plenty of extra length in the kit harness to allow attatchment were it is much easier.

Here is a pic of the the wires stripped



Connect the Red wire from the kit to the Yellow/White wire on the car wiring harness. The Brown wire from the kit goes to the Black/Light Green. Solder the wires



Tape the wires up real good and reconnect the connector. Reinstall the wiring harness into its holder. We should be done with the upper electrical connection. I left everything apart until I made sure it all worked.



Now run the right side wire harness from the box through the right lower dash and tuck it under the soft trim. You will have to adjust/move this when installing the lower scuff panel. Tie wrap the box thingy to something out of the way and make sure it is not gonna rattle on anything.



Next we need to remove the left side panels/molding to gain access for the long wire harness from the kit to go across the dash.
First remove the mid section trim from the A pillar



Next remove the lower instrument panel cover. There are two screws and two clips.
Remove the two screws. This is the screw in the A pillar



This is the screw in the bottom of the panel cover



Pull the lower cover off, the clips that hold it on are at the top of the cover, I didn't get good pics of these clips but they are the same as the mid section piece trim. This shows the approximate location of the clips. I have circled the left upper clip, the right upper clip is about where the arrow is pointing. I just left the park brake release connected, it can come off and the the whole cover would be out of the way. I found that I did not need to remove it all the way



To run the harness across the dash you will need something to grab the wire harness and pull it through/across the dash. I used mechanical fingers. You could also use a coat hanger straigtened, pushed through across the dash from the left side to the right and then taping the wire harness onto the coat hanger and then pull the hanger through with the harness attached. Be care not to snag on anything, don't pull so hard that something gets disconnected or the wire harness comes off the hanger
These pics are from the left side


This is from the right side, the end of the mechanical fingers is hard to see but its in the yellowish lighted area



And this is the harness pulled through/across the dash



Route the wiring so it is out of the way and the connector ends that will connect to the plates are approximately at the meeting point of the A pillar and the scuff panel. I didn't get any pics of this, it was starting to rain and I needed to get it done. You should be able to figure out this though, just run the harness to where you think the connectors are going to come together.

Now make sure you have drilled the holes in both scuff panels. I used double stick tape on the scuff plates. The right side I did first and put the tape approximately where the instructions showed where the tape was supposed to be. I used a 3m double stick tape and cleaned the surfaces with alcohol before sticking.
This shows where I put the tape for the right side. The tape is the red stuff. (New edit) Don't do it like this! I learned the hard way, the plates will not sit flush on the panels. I found out later that the tabs are the fix for the original design which used double stick tape. Original design had no tabs and were falling off. There was a design change, but not an instruction change. The fact that the primer and tape were not included in the kit was because you dont need them. Apparantly you can just use the tabs, I say use you own descrection. The rest of the instructions on taping the plates, well....just ignore them.



It will not let the plate sit real flush with the panel. It works better if you put the tape on the flat surface where the led is, like this. You can't see the right side of the plate but do the same thing on both ends of the plate, just keep the tape on the flat panel that the led sits on. So do both sides like this, it works much better.



Make sure you clean all surfaces with alcohol before sticking the tape on. I put the plate on the panel and then turned it upside down on a towel (as not to scratch it) and pressed really hard to stick the tape. My kit came with these little tabs that you bend around the panel edges. I think this is new feature as there was a lot of complaints that the plates would come off. I cant see how they will come off with these tabs



Now put the connector together on the plate end of the wires. I don't think it matter which wire goes where. Put the wires into the connector end and then clip the connector shut. This is the best pic I find of this. By this time I could feel raindrops on my back!



Connect the wiring harness together at the plates and then reconnect the battery cable and see if they work. You have to cup your hands around the lettering to block out any light to see if they work if it is daytime. They are not bright. If all works, and it should, start putting it back together. The left lower scuff panel goes first, start at the pillar end, line up the centering pin and clip into the A pillar and push it in. Work your way towards the back of the car. The mid panel goes on next. The right side upper A pillar trim is first to go back on and then the lower and the middle piece, just make sure on the right side the middle trim piece goes on last.
 
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This is a coool mod. I just spent the day installing a set I bought off an Lxforums board member only to discover after wiring everything up that there was no inverter box. So now they are installed but not working. Anyone know how I might get the little black box?
 

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This is a coool mod. I just spent the day installing a set I bought off an Lxforums board member only to discover after wiring everything up that there was no inverter box. So now they are installed but not working. Anyone know how I might get the little black box?
Try Focuz Tech or AAC, they sell inverters for the halo kits. I'm assuming that the lights in these things are florescent tubes? Probably thats why they need the inverters. The tubes run on AC power, and the inverters convert AC to DC....
 

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Seems like a lot of work just to have lighted door sills.

Just my opinion.

Not my thing.

Nice write up.

Bob
 

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Sorry for the ignorance but the way these are wired do they come on when each individual door is open or lights are turned or is this just power for the lights and a switch is still required? If switch still required any idea at what point I would add it?
I am doing something similar with LEDs but also on the back doors and want them to come on when the door is open but also want an override switch so when I wash or clean the car and leave the doors open I can shut the lights off.
 

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awesome write up. can you post pictures of them at night? (hope its not too much to ask) I have been wanting to do this but not sure how bright they are. I may still add them to my mod list !!!
 

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Go Dupont Racing!
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Discussion Starter #13
Sorry took so long to reply, I don't spend much time here, mostly at LX forums.

Dont have any night pics, they are not very bright at night, They look like a backlighted sign, it stands out, but not super bright. You cant tell they are on during the day, but when it is dark outside they are definately noticable. They do flicker when they turn off. They are wired to the interior light ciruit so they come on with the interior lights. No need for an extra switch to turn them off when doors are open for long time, just roll the thumb wheel switch for the interior lights all the way down and clicks, that shuts off the inside lights.
 
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