Custom Dodge Magnum Forums banner

21 - 40 of 96 Posts

·
I taught I taw a puddy tat....
Joined
·
4,461 Posts
Stingray, I had a very similar shaking myself last fall. It would shake at highway speeds and when I applied the brakes the shaking increased noticably. I had done all the things you did but it did not solve the problem. I finally decided that the front struts must be the problem. I replaced both front struts, tension struts, sway bar bushings and had it aligned and she has been shake free ever since. Once you try the sway bar bushings, you might consider new front struts. I know it is a little costly but it solved my shake.
 

·
Quando omni flunkus moritati.
Joined
·
3,790 Posts
Discussion Starter #23
Stingray, I had a very similar shaking myself last fall. It would shake at highway speeds and when I applied the brakes the shaking increased noticably. I had done all the things you did but it did not solve the problem. I finally decided that the front struts must be the problem. I replaced both front struts, tension stuts, sway bar bushings and had it aligned and she has been shake free ever since. Once you try the sway bar bushings, you might consider new front struts. I know it is a little costly but it solved my shake.

So your shaking would come and go too? The tension struts are a big ? in my mind. I'm really not sure what specifc role they play in the suspension and I know that they have seen better days. I've done the "bounce test" before and the struts act normally doing that. Is that not a sufficient test? The sway bar bushings are something that I haven't even looked at yet.

Any idea how much all of that cost you?
 

·
I taught I taw a puddy tat....
Joined
·
4,461 Posts
My shake didn't really come and go but it definitely was worse some times than others. I had the work done by a local shop and I think the total was $950 parts and labor. Which was really painful because I would have rather lowered her with coilovers...damn.
 

·
Quando omni flunkus moritati.
Joined
·
3,790 Posts
Discussion Starter #25
My shake didn't really come and go but it definitely was worse some times than others. I had the work done by a local shop and I think the total was $950 parts and labor. Which was really painful because I would have rather lowered her with coilovers...damn.
Ouch! Any idea how much it would be just for the tension struts?


I've been reading a lot about the tension struts trying to understand just exactly what they do and how they act when they go bad. It seems that most people notice that they go bad when the ball joint end wears out. This results in some sort of rattle or clunk sound. I have neither. However, the bushings on the other end are both torn for sure. The tear is from the bottom to the top half way around. Would this allow the tires to toe in and out going down the road?

In addition to all that has been said, my car has been very difficult to properly align for a long time. I've watched people do the alignment and saw the readings only to bring it right back up on the rack and show out. I just had the alignment done with the tie rod replacement and now the steering wheel is turned slightly to the left and the car goes right (more than just road crowning). I believe that this will be my next step. Since the alignment is not right anyway, I am planning to talk to my mechanic tomorrow about what it would cost to replace the tension struts first.

I see that there are a number of aftermarket suppliers of the tension struts and I read a lot about Mopar redesigning the tension struts for 2009(?). So, what is recommended for a replacement? Go with the Mopar brand or something aftermarket?
 

·
Hemi? Noooooooo!
Joined
·
7,347 Posts
I paid $45 bucks a piece for my tension struts and easy switch if the ball joint doesn't give you hell. I had to take the rotors and dust shield to get a pickle fork on them and a good wack with the hammer. I just replaced both those and both inner and outers plus struts and shock. cost was around $650+. Doing it myself saved about a $1000 in labor. But i never had the shakes so don't know if this will help but i havn't been over 35 mph yet after the change. (knock on wood)
 

·
Quando omni flunkus moritati.
Joined
·
3,790 Posts
Discussion Starter #28
Thanks for all of the input from everyone.

I've done some more reading and a little more driving and concluded that the source of the shake is the torn bushings in the tension struts (aka lower control arms). I am planning to purchase the Mevotech brand from Rock Auto. I've never had anything from Mevotech and was wondering if they are any good? Or should I buy revised Mopar brand tension struts?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,593 Posts
Don't know if this is the issue or not but what you've described sound a LOT like the "death wobble" MANY jeep owners have reported over the years and from what I understand it is made worse with larger wheels. I do know one person with a jeep that had this and literally almost died from it.

I found this and hope it helps.

Death Wobble and How To Cure it
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,593 Posts

·
Quando omni flunkus moritati.
Joined
·
3,790 Posts
Discussion Starter #32
Don't know if this is the issue or not but what you've described sound a LOT like the "death wobble" MANY jeep owners have reported over the years and from what I understand it is made worse with larger wheels. I do know one person with a jeep that had this and literally almost died from it.

I found this and hope it helps.

Death Wobble and How To Cure it
Thanks! That was an informative read and kind of sounds like the path I am taking in diagnosing this vibration.

I took the car back to my mechanic yesterday and talked to him about what has happened since the inner tie rod replacement. He took it for a test drive and put it right up on the lift when he got back. Before he got the car in the air he said that it felt like the lower control arms were bad. The bushings looked even worse in the air. They may have just torn more with the vibration getting worse. He said that the alignment seemed fine, but it feels off to me.

At this point, I am waiting to hear what the price would be for parts and labor to swap out the lower control arms (aka tension struts).

Some additional points from driving on the highway yesterday:
It was shaking scary bad on the way to work. I had it up to 55 mph just to stay out of the way a bit, but it didn't like it at all. On the way home, I jump on the highway within 1 mile from work and had it up to 70 mph with no vibration at all. It ran great up to the first stop light. When I pulled away, it was shaking badly again. I didn't go over 50 mph after that. After about 10-15 miles of shaking, it smoothed out again. Just as I got the shop it started shaking slightly. How is this possible?!

I sure hope the tension struts fix the issue because this thing is driving me nuts!
 

·
Quando omni flunkus moritati.
Joined
·
3,790 Posts
Discussion Starter #33
From your last link:

DW can be due to a number of things, lift height is not one of those. Here are a list of causes of DW:

1) Worn out tie-rod or draglink ends
2) Worn out steering stabilizer
3) Warped front rotors
4) Worn out lower control arm or trackbar bushings
5) Loose suspension bolts/components (LCA bolts, trackbar bolts, trackbar bracket)
6) Wheels out of balanced
7) Tire tread uneven
8 Alignment out of whack
9) Improper driveline angles due to improper caster

From my experience:
1) Just replaced inners. Outers are still good.
2) Same as tension strut? I believe this is the problem...for now. Will be the next to be replaced.
3) Just replaced this past weekend.
4) The "actual" lower control arm (not tension strut) looks fine.
5) Bolts are tight. Checked by mechanic when inner tie rods replaced.
6) Wheel balance is fine. Not checked on a machine, but the vibration that I am getting is different that what this would cause.
7) Both front tires have worn towards the outer edges. The driver's side is worse. This may very well be contributing to the problem.
8) I believe that the alignment is still off slightly, but the bad control arms could be affecting this too.
9) Should be checked as part of the alignment...I think. Should be okay.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
428 Posts
I purchased Mevotech's all around on the front of my car. Over 6500 miles and they are still working well. Outer Ties and Tension Struts from Mevotech is good brand and the rubber boot is blue, which is pretty cool in my opinion. good luck
 

·
Quando omni flunkus moritati.
Joined
·
3,790 Posts
Discussion Starter #37
Drive Shaft?????? U joints?
I'm by no means an expert but I had a crazy shake from a very slightly warped drive shaft on an old car.
I'm gonna have to rule these out. I had a bad drive shaft bearing in my '95 Camaro that caused a vibration. That was very different from what I am feeling now. This vibration is definitely coming from the front wheels.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,593 Posts
Is there any noise associated with the shaking? I had a somewhat similar issue with my old taurus although not quite as bad as what you've been going through. The culprit was a bad front right wheel bearing. My mechanic described it like this: one side of the bearing was good and would roll fine but the other side was "sticky" and would grab causing it to rotate with a jerking motion instead of a grinding manner. I was sure it was a warped rotor and sticking pads but even after a pad\rotor\caliper replacement there was no change. When I turned the wheel by hand I could feel it was nice a smooth through about 270° of rotation but the last 90° was tough even with two hands. With only the one wheel doing this it put the shakes into the car something fierce. But the reason I ask about noise is the bearing made a HORRIBLE noise when it would go over the bad spot.
 

·
Quando omni flunkus moritati.
Joined
·
3,790 Posts
Discussion Starter #39
Is there any noise associated with the shaking? I had a somewhat similar issue with my old taurus although not quite as bad as what you've been going through. The culprit was a bad front right wheel bearing. My mechanic described it like this: one side of the bearing was good and would roll fine but the other side was "sticky" and would grab causing it to rotate with a jerking motion instead of a grinding manner. I was sure it was a warped rotor and sticking pads but even after a pad\rotor\caliper replacement there was no change. When I turned the wheel by hand I could feel it was nice a smooth through about 270° of rotation but the last 90° was tough even with two hands. With only the one wheel doing this it put the shakes into the car something fierce. But the reason I ask about noise is the bearing made a HORRIBLE noise when it would go over the bad spot.
I have not noticed any noises associated with the vibration other than the some associated road noise as the wheels wobble. Recently, I did hear some faint rattling at certain times, especially with moderate-significant road bumps. I kind of wrote it off as my paranoia since every little noise or shimmy seems to be a problem right now. However, after seeing how bad the tension strut bushings were on the lift, I'm thinking it wasn't just in my head.

If the wheel bearings are going bad, shouldn't you get some wiggle in the tire? (Get the wheel off the ground. Grab it at 3 and 9 o'clock and wiggle. Repeat at 6 and 12 o'clock.) The wheels were solid when I did my brakes this past weekend.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,593 Posts
Has this RT ever been in a collision? Only wondering as I have a friend with an old ram truck that the drivers side wheels were 1" closer together than the pass after hitting a pole and having the frame straightened. It was aligned and although the wheels were "technically" true it always had a tendency to duck walk a bit and the more the driver would fight it the more wobbly it would become. Having all the wheels parallel is one thing but having them all square is another. Not sure if any of this helps...just grasping at straws here.
 
21 - 40 of 96 Posts
Top