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Quando omni flunkus moritati.
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Discussion Starter #81
Given that I am extremely paranoid about every shake, wobble, rattle, or any other possible thing a car could do (including operating the way it is supposed to), I'd say that I am close to resolving this issue. The ride to work this morning was definitely positive. There was a bit of an unsettled bobbling over washboard roads (which we have a lot of around here). I have a times thought I heard a slight rattling sound over such roads which is making me think that maybe the upper ball joints may need to be replaced too. But, it could be my paranoia too.

There was a vibration, though, and I am quite certain that it is a warped rotor. On long stops from highway speeds, which put a good bit of heat into the rotor, there was a noticeable vibration. The longer you stayed in the brake, the more it would vibrate. However, within about 3 seconds from leaving the stop the vibration would stop. This is an improvement as well. Low speed stops in town did not produce much, if any, vibration. And the reman caliper appears to be operating well with good pedal feel.

So, eventhough I may still have a warped rotor to deal with, my current assessment of the vibration issue can be summarized like this: :dance::banana::1244:

...however, I want to see several days of shake free driving before I am thuroughly convinced that the issue is resolved. There's my paranoia again.
 

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sorry to hear you are having such a hard time with this.
The best way to check the rotor is with a dial indicator. I have one with a fancy magnetic mounting apparatus. If you can borrow, or buy one relatively inexpensive, this will give you the exact amount of run out that your rotors have.

http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_4565.jpg

I own 3 cars and do not believe in turning rotors for these 3 particular applications. However, a hard lesson learned years ago when I would get them turned, that process CAUSED run out, ie warped.
This often happens from any of these things, dirt or a burr on mounting surface of rotor or lathe, the technician not taking care it chucking the rotor up true, or worse case a warped lathe.
When you get a rotor turned you have a high rate of success with both sides of the rotor being parallel to each other, however equally important is that those surfaces are exactly perpendicular to the rotating axis.
...otherwise you have run out , ie a warped rotor freshly turned.

Good luck and see if you can get a dial indicator. I use mine for many things. Can't rebuild a differential without one!
 

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Quando omni flunkus moritati.
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Discussion Starter #84
Well, there is still a vibration. And it is fully in the brakes. Press the brake pedal and it shakes. Release and the vibration goes away. You can also feel it at 65-70mph without hitting the brakes. It seems like the rotors are warped, but not too bad...just enough to cause a vibration.

There's also a bit of a light grinding/rubbing sound. I'm guessing that the pads which are "pre-scorched" are now baked/glazed? Will that improve as they wear, or are the pads shot too? Driving around with a seized up caliper is apparent hard on brakes.

Aside from that, though, it is driving well.
 

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Quando omni flunkus moritati.
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Discussion Starter #85
The car steers and corners well. It drives straight. And other than the warped rotor it is vibration free. However, there seems to be a general "roughness" to it. It just seems that the car should be smoother than it is. And occassionally over rough sections I can hear a faint knock. So, now I'm wondering if the upper ball joint is also worn.

Since this is a pricey part, how can I "test" to see if the ball joint is worn?
 

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Quando omni flunkus moritati.
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Discussion Starter #86
I crawled under the car to take a few pictures tonight.

Right front brake rotor...







Drive shaft...(front of car)


(Rear of car...)


Support bearing (a few shot since it was hard to get)...









And then there is this lovely mess...


Passenger's side...


Driver's side...


From back of car...


Another angle...
 

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Shaolin Ch'uan Fa
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My WAG (wild ass guess...Lol) after looking at your pictures is this............

Your drive-line and drive-line couplers look ok . Looks like outer coating peeling off, that's all.

Your differential looks like it may have been overfilled when you last serviced it. The vent is on the top of the differential on the side that appears more "wet" with gear oil. Could it be a seal or some other kind of leak?.....Yeah, maybe, but I'm guessing that it's the vent. Oil will seep from the vent if overfilled.....Quite common. Mine looked just like that.

That brake rotor is messed up! That's the "bad" or "stuck" caliper I'm guessing.

That rotor looks like it's been "overheated" in areas and looks like "pad transfer" in other areas. You might try resurfacing it and get the caliper rebuilt or replaced.
You might need to replace that rotor.
 

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Quando omni flunkus moritati.
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Discussion Starter #88
I was planning to have the differential flushed and filled during my inspection in April. After seeing the leak I was wondering if I should wait that long? Are you saying that this is "normal"?

The right front caliper seized up completely which, I believe, is what caused the over heating issue. I am an "easy breaker" as much as possible. I prefer to slow down early for a stop light and time the green so that I don't really have to come to a complete stop. So, I'm pretty sure that the bad caliper is the culprit here. I just wasn't sure about the pads. Are they toast? Will they still be useable? I am getting a little bit of squealing out of the right front at lower speed stops.
 

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Shaolin Ch'uan Fa
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I was planning to have the differential flushed and filled during my inspection in April. After seeing the leak I was wondering if I should wait that long? Are you saying that this is "normal"?

The right front caliper seized up completely which, I believe, is what caused the over heating issue. I am an "easy breaker" as much as possible. I prefer to slow down early for a stop light and time the green so that I don't really have to come to a complete stop. So, I'm pretty sure that the bad caliper is the culprit here. I just wasn't sure about the pads. Are they toast? Will they still be useable? I am getting a little bit of squealing out of the right front at lower speed stops.

As far as the pads go..........Definately replace that set (rt side). Maybe the rotor too.

The oil on the differential may very well be coming from the vent which is right above the rt. axle (see pic) I'm thinking it is
If it is, there's nothing to worry about. It just means that the gear oil level is a little high.


 

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Quando omni flunkus moritati.
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Discussion Starter #90
Looking back at my pics, it does look like the oil is originating from the vent area. I was just concerned that it may be leaking to the point of having nothing left in it.

Dropping more money into the "money pit on wheels" is really getting old. As much as I hate the idea of replacing the less than a month old brakes, it looks like I don't really have a choice.
 

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Shaolin Ch'uan Fa
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Looking back at my pics, it does look like the oil is originating from the vent area. I was just concerned that it may be leaking to the point of having nothing left in it.

Dropping more money into the "money pit on wheels" is really getting old. As much as I hate the idea of replacing the less than a month old brakes, it looks like I don't really have a choice.

You shouldn't loose all the gear oil out of the vent.

As far a replacing month old brakes. I feel for you, but you are correct in that you really "don't have a choice"
 

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Quando omni flunkus moritati.
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Discussion Starter #92
Well, my saga continues...

I have been taking it very, very easy on the brakes and did get in contact with Steve at R1. Per his recommendation I did a couple of brake bedding stops. There is still a vibration, but I'm not convinced that it is from warped rotors anymore. The vibration is "activated" by applying moderate to hard brake pressure. If you are easy on the brakes, there is practically no additional shaking from pressing the brake pedal. Also, if you drag out the final stop the brakes feel smooth. A warped rotor would pulse.

The vibration that I have now is not really a vibration. It is more of a shake. It doesn't shake the wheel but you can feel it in the brake pedal if you press hard enough. It is not consistent at all in either its frequency or strength. There is also a knock coming from the right front wheel. The knock seems to happen when the wheel drops suddenly, like over a speed bump, or over washboard roads where the bumps come quick.

So, here is what I am thinking now... It is either the front strut, sway bar end link, or upper ball joint. So, how do you go about properly testing each of these components for wear/damage? Also, will a strut, shock, and spring set from a (2007?) Charger Daytona fit on my '06 R/T?
 

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you can rule out the end link. That can make noise but not likely to cause a vibration. Almost any other suspension component (bushing/balljoint) can cause vibration.
I cant remember if you said that you replaced the tension struts or not. Those are very problematic and should be replaced with the latest OE version of the SRT tension strut.

To check the upper ball joint, raise the front until the wheels are off the ground and support the car well. Grab the upper part of the wheel, or someone else, why the other one of you watch the ball joint for movement as the wheel is being forced in and out.

you should inspect all joints and bushings. test tie rods by having someone grab the front and back of the wheel and try moving it left and right. the steering column should be locked. HAve someone look at the joints as that back and forth force is being applied.

I do not believe the Charger springs and struts will work. The struts likely will. I had several Charger owners interested in the Eibach spring strut set I have and I have to inform them that Eibach has a different part number for the springs but the struts are the same part number.

I hope this helps.
 

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I don't know if it relAtive to your problem, but 10k ago I replace all the front suspension and put stock rims for the winter. After the winter bought Eibach pro kit and put rims back on. there the shakimg started, did allignment but my mechanic said that the rims are the problem. Went to tire shop did the balance and shaking reduced drastic. Mention that shaking would appear only between 50 - 65 mph other speeds there is no shaking. Now I need to fix 3 out of 4 rims, they bend on inside you would never tell unless you take ur tire off and run it on the machine.
 

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Well, my saga continues...

I have been taking it very, very easy on the brakes and did get in contact with Steve at R1. Per his recommendation I did a couple of brake bedding stops. There is still a vibration, but I'm not convinced that it is from warped rotors anymore. The vibration is "activated" by applying moderate to hard brake pressure. If you are easy on the brakes, there is practically no additional shaking from pressing the brake pedal. Also, if you drag out the final stop the brakes feel smooth. A warped rotor would pulse.

The vibration that I have now is not really a vibration. It is more of a shake. It doesn't shake the wheel but you can feel it in the brake pedal if you press hard enough. It is not consistent at all in either its frequency or strength. There is also a knock coming from the right front wheel. The knock seems to happen when the wheel drops suddenly, like over a speed bump, or over washboard roads where the bumps come quick.

So, here is what I am thinking now... It is either the front strut, sway bar end link, or upper ball joint. So, how do you go about properly testing each of these components for wear/damage? Also, will a strut, shock, and spring set from a (2007?) Charger Daytona fit on my '06 R/T?
Hey stingrayj, i know some years have passed on this issue but did you ever find out what was causing the shakes? I'm going through the same exact symptoms and can't pin point what's wrong.
 
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