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05 RT AWD, The Car Bucks/Jerks While Accelerating Mildly, But, When I Step Hard on The Gas, It doesn't Buck/Jerk. Also, When I Drive The Car Manually in 3rd Gear it Doesn't Buck/Jerk As Much. I Also Noticed it Seems Like the Car Likes to Put itself In 4th Gear any Chance it Gets, When I Start From A Dead Stop, I Can Hear The Gears Shift Quickly To Get in The 4th Gear.
Something I Find That Baffles Me Is, When I'm not Moving and Put the car in Manual Gear Select Mode, it (Shows)/Jumps to the 4th Gear, is This Normal? Shouldn't it Start From The 1st Gear?? Or is this Just A Magnum Thing? I did a Video to show What I Mean..

​​​​​​https://youtu.be/kuQqL2zTZJA

https://youtu.be/ouacDec9BGc


Also, The Interior/Dash and Headlights Randomly Flashes On And Off, What's Causing this?

https://youtu.be/YOA8I_uclFo
 

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05 RT AWD, The Car Bucks/Jerks While Accelerating Mildly, But, When I Step Hard on The Gas, It doesn't Buck/Jerk. Also, When I Drive The Car Manually in 3rd Gear it Doesn't Buck/Jerk As Much. I Also Noticed it Seems Like the Car Likes to Put itself In 4th Gear any Chance it Gets, When I Start From A Dead Stop, I Can Hear The Gears Shift Quickly To Get in The 4th Gear.
Something I Find That Baffles Me Is, When I'm not Moving and Put the car in Manual Gear Select Mode, it (Shows)/Jumps to the 4th Gear, is This Normal? Shouldn't it Start From The 1st Gear?? Or is this Just A Magnum Thing? I did a Video to show What I Mean..

Welcome to the world of the Mercedes transmission that they put in the AWD Hemi's back then. They had multiple problems. The shudder under light acceleration is caused by a wonderful feature of the transmission that varies the slip of the torque converter depending on throttle position. Under very light throttle, it essentially locks up the torque converter. Only problem is, they are using a variable slip friction clutch to try to regulate the torque converter, which, of course, also slips. So, they're trying to regulate something that slips with something else that also slips. Do you see any chance for problems? Yep. I've got the same symptoms on my 05 R/T. The dealer replaced the torque converter - the clutch evidently is also inside the torque converter. I worked great for a month or two. Found out there is a service bulletin on the problem. It blames water in the transmission fluid and calls for a triple flush along with doing a big silicone sealing job around the dipstick tube where it goes into the transmission. Had all that done... didn't help a thing. Had a good transmission shop tell me the problem is because the specifications for transmission oil lubricosity got changed by the US Gov't that year and Mercedes didn't get the word and the clutches chatter with the wrong specific design for the new oil. True of not, I don't know, but he put a couple of vials of a transmission oil modifier into it and it cured the problem - but it came back after less than a year. Added more friction modifier - helped for a while... I haven't found the true answer yet. Rip it out and put a 5 speed manual in there. (Good luck of that one!)

Another fun little hazard associated with the transmission on these Maggies is that if your Antilock Brake Sensors go out, it will instruct the transmission to go into Limp Home mode. It will cost your dearly for the dealer to figure that out (they ought to know it). But if your transmission goes into limp home mode, your engine will not go over 3000 rpm nor shift above 2nd gear and you will think your transmission is the problem - it isn't. If your antilock brakes warning light is lit and your transmission does this, replace the antilock brake sensors at the rear wheels!

These transmissions are supposedly also prone to their internal electrics solenoid plate going bad so it will not shift properly. I changed mine to no avail before finally taking it to a Tunex shop that had a mechanic that understood all of these electronic disasters.

Good luck on your other ailments.
 

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Welcome to the Forum.

TheBud pretty much covered the 'bucking' problem that you described. It is most commonly referred to as the Trans Shudder on the forum. I experienced all the same problems that you listed when I bought my car. I took it to a trans shop to see if a drain, flush, filter would do any good and he said that the fluid was burnt and he suspected the trans was shot. The source of the problem is when the Torque Converter is trying to lock up but it cannot due to water in the fluid, it does some irreversible damage or something. I've driven on my "bad" transmission for about 15,000 miles. I use approx 1 bottle of friction modifier /year to bandaid the shudder (until the trans finally goes for good).
I'm not a mechanic, but my recommendations would be:
1. See if a fluid change (filter while you're there) and application of the TSB will solve the problem (the TSB addresses the entry point for the water into the trans [dipstick tube]); I think the TSB is 21-006-03 issued Feb. 2006
2. Have the tranny rebuilt or the Torque converter replaced by a reputable shop - not cheap (i was quoted 2500-3000)
3. Friction modifier will bandaid the problem for a while, but just know that your tranny will eventually leave you stranded. If you're good w/that, the friction modifier is avail from dodge, p/N 4318060AC.

Regarding the headlights. I also had this problem when I bought my car. It is the light switch itself. The style panel you've got probably has the standard rotary knob for the headlights, and also a separate button for the fog lights. The new one has just a rotary button that you can press in the Z axis to turn on and off the fog lights. This solved the problem for me. However, I do still have some slight random pulsating of the dash lights. I seem to remember reading on here that having dodge reflash your PCM to the latest version would address that, I have not cared enough to pursue that. Also, if you have the light sensor in the middle of your dash (big black button looking thing at the base of your windshield) then you can use the switch panel that has an automatic headlights option, it'll work.

RKE Battery Low. On your video you had that pop up on your dash. That is the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) battery in your key. You just need to replace it. I believe they're 2032 batteries, and readily available at any parts store (or next to most cash registers at any store...).

The downshift to 4th from drive. That is normal. It doesn't actually put the car in 4th gear, its just limits the car from going above 4th gear. If you were on the interstate and somebody accidentally hit your gear shifter you would certainly not want it going into first. The car will still shift from 1-4 when you have 4 selected.


Since we have the same car (RT AWD), i'll list out a couple other things that I have addressed:
1. downshift clunk - if you hear a clunk (sounds like its from rear diff area) while you're coming to a stop i'd recommend replacing your motor mounts. I just did mine this weekend and am very pleased with the improvements. Plenty of other clunks and slop still in the system (i'm addressing that over the next few weeks) but no more downshift clunk as I roll to a stop sign.

2. hood and lift gate struts: If your struts don't hold your hood or liftgate they're really cheap and pretty easy to replace. Highly recommend doing that. Nothing says "i don't maintain my car" like using a broomstick to prop your hood or liftgate (spoken from the voice of experience...)

3. Joystick on your Navigation (if you have NAV). If it's broke, there's no good answer, the part can only be bought in like quantities of 50 and it's a PITA to replace. If it's not broke, be gentle on that thing...


Good luck with your car man. They're great vehicles, I love mine. Not incredibly common so they can stand out in a crowd, but many of the bones of the car are shared with Charges and 300c's, so the common parts are pretty inexpensive and readily available. It's the perfect combo.
 

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My 2006 AWD R/T started doing this 8 years and 170,000 miles ago. Learn your car and you will know when this is going to happen. Don't drive in that range. For me its 60 at 2000 rpm. I down shift to raise the RPM to 2500 and have no problems. Don't let it shudder. Drive it like you stole it and I never experience the shudder. I have no worries about the trans going out. 270,000 miles so far. Go fast, take chances.
 

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The headlight problem is the switch. Pop the bad switch out of the dash and replace with the new style switch. Look it up on utube. Lots of vids. Fixxed my 06 when this started to happen.
 
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