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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys. Im looking to purchase a new sub+amp. Im looking at the RE 15" XXX. I know a few people support RE on this site which is great, but im looking for a few amp suggestions, and if i would need a separate battery, or even a new alt? Any info would be killer. Thanks everyone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Im also not trying to completely push this thing to the limit. Just a nice loud everyday driver with the option to show off :)
 

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RE XXX's are great. You will need a battery or 2, will have to bump up ur alternator. Now as far as the subs go, u have to decide if ur going to push the 15'swith 1 amp or 1 amp on each sub. PM me for the rest of the details so I can assist u further.
 

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I roll with everything Rockford Fosgate. Keep my system mild not too aggressive so no need for a new battery or alt. I'd say just get a 1 or 2 farad cap with you new setup and see what that does for you!!
 

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I roll with everything Rockford Fosgate. Keep my system mild not too aggressive so no need for a new battery or alt. I'd say just get a 1 or 2 farad cap with you new setup and see what that does for you!!
Uhh oh not the cap dilemma again lol.. Just stirring the pot lol...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ya im probably not going to run a cap this time around. I've had bad luck i guess.
 

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FWIW, an "upgraded" alternator will do nothing for you. They may be advertised as 200+amp, but if you know anything about our electrical systems, youll figure out its not possible and will give you no boost. And yes, caps are more useless than throttle body spacers and catch cans...as for amplifiers, you can go wrong with Cactus, Sundown, AB VFL, etc.

Ive run 10k RMS on the stock electrical YEARS ago and all I needed were (2) extra batteries. I never dropped below 13.Xv and never saw clipping under an oscope. Id suggest just getting a second battery and wire it to the stocker. This is where I had my two:

 

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FWIW, an "upgraded" alternator will do nothing for you. They may be advertised as 200+amp, but if you know anything about our electrical systems, youll figure out its not possible and will give you no boost. And yes, caps are more useless than throttle body spacers and catch cans...as for amplifiers, you can go wrong with Cactus, Sundown, AB VFL, etc.

Ive run 10k RMS on the stock electrical YEARS ago and all I needed were (2) extra batteries. I never dropped below 13.Xv and never saw clipping under an oscope. Id suggest just getting a second battery and wire it to the stocker. This is where I had my two:

an alternator upgrade did nothing? that's the first time I've ever, EVER, read or heard that and I've read and heard a heck of a lot. Somebody get Big Boy in here!!!

what size kinetik is that?
 

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an alternator upgrade did nothing? that's the first time I've ever, EVER, read or heard that and I've read and heard a heck of a lot. Somebody get Big Boy in here!!!

what size kinetik is that?
It was in 2007 and they were 1800s. And yes, an "upgrade" will do nothing in our cars. Short of using two alternators, its not possible. Its all in the service manual and has been discussed in EXTREME length on other forums. We even had Excessive Amperage try to come into the thread to spew BS and try to explain how he thinks it supposedly works. Anyone who tells you they do, is lying.
 

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It was in 2007 and they were 1800s. And yes, an "upgrade" will do nothing in our cars. Short of using two alternators, its not possible. Its all in the service manual and has been discussed in EXTREME length on other forums. We even had Excessive Amperage try to come into the thread to spew BS and try to explain how he thinks it supposedly works. Anyone who tells you they do, is lying.
That doesn't make any sense. How is our car any different than any other car?


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It was in 2007 and they were 1800s. And yes, an "upgrade" will do nothing in our cars. Short of using two alternators, its not possible. Its all in the service manual and has been discussed in EXTREME length on other forums. We even had Excessive Amperage try to come into the thread to spew BS and try to explain how he thinks it supposedly works. Anyone who tells you they do, is lying.

wow, I'll have to look into that. You said 10k rms in a magnum with extra batts....did you have dimming lights?

I'm on stock electrical right now, with one Deka in the back (that replaced the stock) and I have about 1.3k RMS. I'll give it 45 minutes of driving before my battery light comes on. Then again, I'm definitely supposed to have another battery back there with these power hungry hifonics.
 

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That doesn't make any sense. How is our car any different than any other car?


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I am pretty sure he is talking about our pcm controlling the voltage output from the alternator. I have never heard how anyone over rides it or if it can even be done. So from what I understand a 250+ amp alternator will still only put out 140-160 amps that come factory in our cars. Now I may be wrong but I've just never heard the details
 

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New alt, 1 or 2 batts don't get caps as they are useless audio places love to push em but any audio guy will tell u skip em, and upgrade ur wiring

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I am pretty sure he is talking about our pcm controlling the voltage output from the alternator. I have never heard how anyone over rides it or if it can even be done. So from what I understand a 250+ amp alternator will still only put out 140-160 amps that come factory in our cars. Now I may be wrong but I've just never heard the details
are our cars somehow the only cars with pcm's controlling the output from the alt? Cause I've seen youtube videos of people show voltage drops on stock alt in chargers dipped down to low 12's, got a new HO alt, then they stayed at 14.7 at full tilt.
 

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Thats funny. With a stock alt I would dip to 11's. with my DC power I never saw below 13v. Both were with 6 batteries.

I know what you are talking about tho. The way the computer adjusts the alternator output... There are a few companies that have figures out a way to trick the pcm into thing its still "working" and then you just run a plain one one wire field alternator, with an adjustable regulator if you want to get fancy.

I drive around daily at 15.2v
 

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As far as your amp goes. Put 2kw to that woofer and it will laugh. I would normally suggest putting 3kw to one daily.

The are extremely inefficient. In my opinion better woofers can be had for cheaper.

That comes from someone who has had xxx.

If your stuck on RE save your money and throw 2kw on a MX and you'll love it.
 

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As far as your amp goes. Put 2kw to that woofer and it will laugh. I would normally suggest putting 3kw to one daily.

The are extremely inefficient. In my opinion better woofers can be had for cheaper.

That comes from someone who has had xxx.

If your stuck on RE save your money and throw 2kw on a MX and you'll love it.
So Bigg, on the sub tip, so if RE XXX's aren't up to par, wat is then? I wanna run two 15's, but I want my system to destroy all ground pounders, so I need ur assistance on this. I want DC's level 5's but there are not shipping any out. Holla at me and share with me your opinion.
 

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are our cars somehow the only cars with pcm's controlling the output from the alt? Cause I've seen youtube videos of people show voltage drops on stock alt in chargers dipped down to low 12's, got a new HO alt, then they stayed at 14.7 at full tilt.
Its all the Chrysler cars, 300s, Neons, etc. And I assume youre talking about the Mechman (or whatever his name is) videos. If so, that guy had an alternator on its way out hence the voltage prior to getting the new alternator. Like I said, people are lying to you if they say it works and thats all Ill say to keep this thread somewhat on topic. You can choose to believe them, but Ive been attempting it since 2007 - until I thankfully sold all my audio junk year ago.

If you want one of the best woofers, look into TC Sounds. If you want to do something other than just compete, the LMS-R is one of the best - next to the LMS Ultra. Im glad I got out of lousy car audio, but Id never use anything else in my car or home.

TC Sounds LMS-R 15" DVC Subwoofer 293-662
 
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